David Ellsworth Class

[Herebrooks]

There are two people I wish I could have met that I believe made a difference in the wood working world.

1. Sam Maloof
2. Bob Stocksdale

Both are not with us any longer but I do believe they made what we have now.

Looking forward to hearing what you learn.   I was so lucky to have Lyle Jamieson stop at my house 3 times and he is about the same style as David and Jimmy Clewes who stopped by as well and also sent me and the vets all of his DVDs and his style is wonderful as well.

Agreed!!!

[Herebrooks]

Well, not really.  It helps keep the relative humidity inside the bag higher.  Wood stills dries faster from endgrain than face than quarter, because of the way it's constructed.  True enough that the outside of the wood will lose faster than the inside, though.  Inside has to come out, which is why face and quarter, which is not vascular, dries slower.

The paper bag also buffers the rate of loss a bit on its own, because it's wood, and is governed by the same adsorb/desorb rules as the bowl it contains.  Higher RH inside maintained as it loses to the lower outside RH.  Put DRY shavings in as a buffer, not wet, as many suggest,  because they may foster mildew by slowing the rate of loss too much sometimes.  

Some of us don't bag at all, having basements with concrete floors where the RH is high.

Tell David.

[MichaelMouse]

Tell David.

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgt...gtr113.htm    Chapter three covers what you want on drying, two on wood structure, which explains why.

[Herebrooks]

Another takeaway from David's class. He said he has no definition of sharpness when I asked. He spoke of degree of sharpness however and the resulting characteristics. A blunt tool will certainly remain in that state longer than a very acute edge. The acute edge lasting a shorter time. Somewhere in between would be my choice.

[Herebrooks]

Having owned Volkswagon vans, I remember so well lying on my back, reaching upwards out of sight fixing something basically upside down and backwards. Such is hollow endgrain turning using nibs(I call them that). Similar in that you can't see what you're doing and only cutting by feel. This is David realm, and sooo much fun, until you blow thru the side.

[Arlin Eastman]

So when were you going?  Or did you already go and I missed it?

[Herebrooks]

So when were you going?  Or did you already go and I missed it?

already been Arlin

[Arlin Eastman]

Another takeaway from David's class. He said he has no definition of sharpness when I asked. He spoke of degree of sharpness however and the resulting characteristics. A blunt tool will certainly remain in that state longer than a very acute edge. The acute edge lasting a shorter time. Somewhere in between would be my choice.

On the sharpening I learned long ago here that many people have their own ways to sharpen and how sharp they need to be. 



To me now that I have a CBN this is how I feel.

Most bowl gouges when Roughing out a bowl do not need to be razor sharp just sharp enough to remove the chips and regrind if needed.  On the last cut resharpen as good as you can get it to leave a very nice surface behind.

On spindle gouges Sharp is needed most of the time and if it gets dull resharpen as often as needed and if in question Sharpen it instead of guessing.

On Skews Sharp as you can get it all the time for all cuts since it is way to hard to use even if it is medium sharp

On Scrappers sharp is not needed but a bur is needed and there are several kinds of burs to do.  A thick bur will remove a lot of wood and to get that bur the edge has to be bent over a few times.  A small bur is best when you are doing a shear scrape since is will do it the best.

Of course this is just one opinion of thousands but what I have learned from listening and much trial and error.

[Herebrooks]

On the sharpening I learned long ago here that many people have their own ways to sharpen and how sharp they need to be. 



To me now that I have a CBN this is how I feel.

Most bowl gouges when Roughing out a bowl do not need to be razor sharp just sharp enough to remove the chips and regrind if needed.  On the last cut resharpen as good as you can get it to leave a very nice surface behind.

On spindle gouges Sharp is needed most of the time and if it gets dull resharpen as often as needed and if in question Sharpen it instead of guessing.

On Skews Sharp as you can get it all the time for all cuts since it is way to hard to use even if it is medium sharp

On Scrappers sharp is not needed but a bur is needed and there are several kinds of burs to do.  A thick bur will remove a lot of wood and to get that bur the edge has to be bent over a few times.  A small bur is best when you are doing a shear scrape since is will do it the best.

Of course this is just one opinion of thousands but what I have learned from listening and much trial and error.

Solid thinking there Arlin.

[SceneryMaker]

What I've heard is that if you're wondering if it might be getting dull, it's been dull for quite a while. I'm invariably surprised at how different (and better) a fresh grind is to use.