Woody I can not help you with the picture part I been hear for a long time but I'm computer challenged
I believe if the gears look good there good and would not blindly replace anything is there a near buy wood worker that you might lean on for hands on help
I am in the lower mi thumb and i cerntanly would help if you were close buy
make certain the feed rolls are free to spin while it's apart because that gear box is not made to shift under ANY type of load
I taken some pictures showing the problem. One thing I noticed is the 2 gears on the handle shaft part no 524 are not coplanar. Could this be causing the problem meshing with low gear? If so, do I just replace that part and it should then work? I tried to attach the pictures but it wouldn't work, error message file too big. How do I get around that? Thanks.
If you have MS Picture Manager you can go Edit pictures on the far Right had said and click on that once you have the picture you want. Then click on Resize on the Bottom Right and click on that. When you do that click on the box that has the 1024x768 and then save the change.
That will give you the size that is needed to show it here.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
I finally was able to resize a picture to attach to show what i am calling coplanar. The shaft 527 spins freely 523 with the 2 large gears does not. Could that indicate a bad bearing? The knob shaft 511 does not spin but i assume that is ok. The infeed and outfeed rollers spin but not as freely as 527. Bearings are tight. The fudge shaft appears straight. Hope this helps. Thanks for your assistance as this is very frustrating.
Woody
It appears in your picture that gear523 is misshapen or is it the way the picture shows it?
there shoud be an EXACT space between the separately machined gears of 1/8 all the way around it is all one piece but two gears a 79 tooth and a 71 tooth
If I counted correctly
That gear looks warped In the pic a 1/8th drill bit should just be about right to fit between the gears and slid all the way around the space has to be the same all the way around
And yes that shaft should just spin freely when in the neutral or centre Detent position a tight bearing (almost siezed ) would sure give you shifting problems all those shafts must be reasonly easy to turn
Part 524 is a bearing do you mean 522 shaft turns hard ? I am using grizzly go453 gear box break down for reference
Gear 527 is always meshed it is pressed onto 526 the only part that moves in there to shift is 523 slids on shaft # 522 to engage etheir the small or larger gear # 526 that also has two gears machined on it
22 teeth on one end and and 14 teeth on the other
The gear box for GO 453 and 454 are identical exept for that gear set that is how I converted mine to a slower high speed when my planner failed
If you remove gear 523 from the shaft 522 the detent ball and spring will take a hike so be sure to catch it
And the seal at the sprocket end will need replacement number 516
You stated that your not a mechanic so I'll add these words of warning do not hammer any thing together especially bearings
The gear looked warped to me , I will check it out tomorrow with a drill bit. I don't know why but grizzly has changed its part numbers slightly. Our numbers don't jive even though I was using my manual. I was planning on using a socket to seat the bearing. Is there a safer way to do this along with the seal? I really appreciate all your help.
Woody in the picture the box is in high gear and that sliding gear looks warped to heck and if it is bad as it looks I'll put money on that's the problem take a very good look at the smaller gear set also
For tooth damage if the gear is as warped as it looks it may have damaged the other those two larger gears the shift F O R K gears (one part ) have to be exactly straight to one another
Not wider at one point as those appear
Do you mean part number 526 with the low and high gear? Also what is the preferred way to remove and install the bearings and oil seal? I wonder if the gearbox was actually shifting into neutral before but the infeed roller would not turn because 522 does not turn freely. Thanks.
Just measured the gap between the 2 large gears with a drill bit. At it s widest the bit goes between them easil, at its narrowest you have to push it down but it will still bottom out on the shaft. Is that too much of a gap? The other 2 small gears appear ok but should I replace them anyway since I have everything apart and have to replace these other parts?
Woody
the gears should be perfectly true
Easiest way to remove the bearings is a puller best way to replace them is a press with the proper adapters
Not every one has those tools so you may have to improvise a cheep H/F gear puller will usually do the trick removing them
a good vice just squeeze them on pressing only on the race side that is being fitted
RE:pressing the bearing on the shaft press only the inside part of your bearing when the bearing is placed in a bore press only the outer part of the bearing
That shaft should spin freely check the bearings as far as the gear in the picture it looks real warped if it is only off a couple thousands probably would not mater provided the gear teeth are rolled on true
are the feed rollers free with the chain removed ?
If anything in the drive train just stops when you shift to neutral then it will not shift to the other gear it has to have gear and shaft coast
While every thing is spinning and you shift to neutral the gears are turning and there is very little speed difference in dropping it in to a slightly higher or lower speed if you shift it to neutral then wait till every thing stops then yes it will not shift because you are trying to slide a bigger stopped gear into a quite small spinning gear
The smaller gears spin with the cutter head the sliding set with the feed rolls
If you ever had an old stick shift car you could shift them if you were carefully with out the clutch while moving
When you were sitting still try that and all that happened was a lot of grinding
In this case if some thing is tight in there and stops it will be hard to shift or impossible like the stopped stick shift car
In the case of the planner when this happens you would have to shut the machine off and line things up before proceeding as there is no clutch
Grizzly is very good to get parts from and very reasonable comparatively
I have had three of these type planners over the years all three were very shiftable all three had that same common design gear case
I fixed a friends king planner with grizz gears king is a brand sold in Canada had the exact same gear case exept for paint
One other thing it uses gear oil not light engine type oil is that part corect?
And I would replace both parts if one gear set has been bad a long time the other set may be questionable why chance it
I agree that both sets of gears should be replaced. The shaft with the 2 large gears turns but not nearly as freely as the one with the 2 smaller gears. YOu said to check the bearing but I'm not quite sure how. Do I take the shaft back out of the front of the gearbox along with the bearing and see if the bearing spins freely around the shaft?
Assuming I have to replace the bearings is the procedure to pull the shaft out of the box t hen use the puller to remove the bearing from the shaft?
To install new bearings do I press fit the bearing on the shaft then just push the shaft into the front of the gearbox? Or do I press fit the bearing in the box and then push the shaft into the bearing? The procedure you were describing for installation is not clear[my inexperience]- is this how to fit a bearing on the shaft alone, like the back end of the shaft? Since I dont have a press is there where I use what I tried to describe before, pvc pipe with diameter to fit the inside race, tapping gently with a rubber mallet? Does the oil seal install from the front after everything else is installed? is that pushed in with a section of pvc like the bearing.
The feed rollers will spin but not what I would call freely. It takes some force. Since the chains are off I assume this has nothing to do with the gear shaft that is not spinning very freely.
Your explanation about manual transmissions really helped. I still don't completely understand> Are you saying that when both gears are spinning at close speeds it is more likely that the gears will line up when you try to engage the gears?If one gear were not turning if you engage and miss the mesh, you would have to move back out and try again and keep repeating? Not sure if I am making sense.
Again many thanks and sorry for so many questions.
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