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I thought I had everything tuned in with my LV BU planes but now getting tear out on QSWO boards but only the ones with no rays visible. Tear out gets out of control where QS is transitioning to smaller radius grain. My blade is ground at 38d primary with a small micro bevel. Mouth closed up as small as possible. Blade is A2 and hair cut sharp. Curiously, almost zero tear out on figured boards. Do I use a higher angle microbevel? Or that become a problem on BU planes? I should add that also get same tear out with LV #5 bench plane.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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I'll be interested in what others say, too!
I have some QS red-oak which tears out even with an HNT Gordon 55-degree plane. I've had to scrape that wood... or just sand it.... Other pretty oak I have, is much easier. Not much rhyme or reason to it.
Chris
Chris
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Some boards are just ornery. Use a scraper, or try a higher angle BD plane.
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(07-02-2018, 01:28 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: Some boards are just ornery. Use a scraper, or try a higher angle BD plane.
Even Krenov said you can't (and shouldn't) plane every board.
Cabinet scrapers are wonderful things.
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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07-02-2018, 02:52 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-02-2018, 03:02 PM by wmickley.)
(07-02-2018, 01:59 PM)Aram Wrote: Even Krenov said you can't (and shouldn't) plane every board.
Cabinet scrapers are wonderful things.
I have planed every board since 1976. I use a double iron plane. With a double iron you can learn to plane quartersawn oak.
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(07-02-2018, 02:52 PM)wmickley Wrote: I have planed every board since 1976. I use a double iron plane. With a double iron you can learn to plane quartersawn oak.
OK, I'm googling double iron planes, but did you have any brand in mind? Thanks
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I would bet you have a board or 3 with reversing grain. Try planing across the spots with the tear out. You may have to experiment with a few different approach angles to find the sweet spot.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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(07-02-2018, 05:08 PM)aruuk Wrote: OK, I'm googling double iron planes, but did you have any brand in mind? Thanks
I have been using Vintage Stanleys, and Millers Falls planes.....the "double iron" just means there is a chipbreaker added to the bevel DOWN iron. Set within 1mm from the edge, the chipbreaker helps reduce tear outs. BU planes have no such thing....and add like an over-sized block plane.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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(07-02-2018, 05:08 PM)aruuk Wrote: OK, I'm googling double iron planes, but did you have any brand in mind? Thanks
For some woods, white oak among them, quartersawn material is difficult to plane. The timber is so eager to be riven in this plane that it will split out ahead of the cut. When I mentioned this before on a forum, some fellow posted a picture of oak and said he had no trouble. However his piece was cut about five degrees from quartersawn. The trouble arises only on boards that are really well aligned with the rays or only on that portion of the board that is well aligned.
Aruuk, your #5 bench plane is probably a double iron plane. For this situation have the iron a sharp as you can, take a very light cut, and put the cap iron up close to the edge. If you still get tear out, the cap iron is too far away.
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(07-02-2018, 11:53 AM)aruuk Wrote: I thought I had everything tuned in with my LV BU planes but now getting tear out on QSWO boards but only the ones with no rays visible. Tear out gets out of control where QS is transitioning to smaller radius grain. My blade is ground at 38d primary with a small micro bevel. Mouth closed up as small as possible. Blade is A2 and hair cut sharp. Curiously, almost zero tear out on figured boards. Do I use a higher angle microbevel? Or that become a problem on BU planes? I should add that also get same tear out with LV #5 bench plane.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Aruuk, the solution for your BU plane is simply to increase the secondary bevel to 50 degrees for a 62 degree cutting angle. You will then plane without tearout.
Incidentally, the mouth size will be irrelevant when set up that way.
For the #5, which is a BD plane, as mentioned by Warren, set the chipbreaker as close as possible to the edge of the blade. You are looking at around 0.3 to 0.4mm ( not the 1mm mentioned by Steven, which would be too far back).
Regards from Perth
Derek
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