Delta Homecraft Lathe

[Grey Mountain]

Try

www.productmanuals.org

as a possible source for a manual.

GM

[Wildwood]

Use this tool rest to turn pens.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...olrst-robu

This one will work too.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...olrst-robu

Less expensive option but will need to buy their tool rest adapter too.

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CLTEZSETC.html

If don't have one can buy a 3/8” or 1/2” drive extension for less than $10 for knock out bar.
Lowes or other hardware stores sell round steel bars and will sell by inch or foot! Have to ask them to cut to size.

[Bope]

I measured and this is the 11" lathe. I put some 3-in-one oil in the headstock and it still sounds a little dry but that my be dust buildup between the pulley and the headstock. Still runs fine and no movement in the bearings. I attempted to make some things round and was presently surprised. I first tried some pine thinking softer wood be less scary to start with. I just played with the different tools that came with the purchase. I then tried some cherry. There were 2 pieces to start with but one got on the losing end of a skew. I was turning these on a pen mandrel since that is the first projects I want to do. I did get a piece of 1/2" steel rod to remove the screw center that was in the headstock. It took some persuasion but did eventually come out without the need of PB Blaster. I will admit the sucking sound from the vortex started and was much louder than I had expected. 

   

[Grey Mountain]

PIne, and other soft woods, are very poor turning materials. The wood will tear out easily. Some of the best practice wood are tree limbs a couple of inches or so in diameter and a foot long. Best of all, it's free.

GM

[MichaelMouse]

PIne, and other soft woods, are very poor turning materials.  The wood will tear out easily.  Some of the best practice wood are tree limbs a couple of inches or so in diameter and a foot long.  Best of all, it's free.  

GM

They are, however, excellent woods to practice your tool techniques.  Sort of like the old song about NY, if you can turn them smooth, you can turn anything.  Two techniques make long-grained softwood difficult.  First is "rubbing the bevel" where you burnish the latewood and compress the early.  Second is keeping the tool too broad into the cut "making the chips fly" rather than slicing narrowly.  It tears them easily, rather than slicing and whittling them.  Both make smaller pieces chatter/squirm, which can lead to an actual dismount.  I never let the kids in school use a point center for softwoods, only a cup center, for that reason.

When you graduate to hardwoods, you'll find their shorter grain and greater consistency a pure joy. Of course, from your pictures you first want to remember to cut downhill/grain. You can get away with a bit of upgrain on hardwoods, but it's never a good woodworking/turning technique

[Rodneywt1180b]

That answers my question in the other thread.  You're pretty new to turning.  Congrats on the lathe!  I'd say that $260 for it and the dovetail jig was a pretty decent buy.  It should be a very good lathe for you and you're money ahead compared to a new mini lathe,
As mentioned by others check out vintage machinery and owwm.org.  You should be able to find manuals there and have any other questions about your lathe answered.