Posts: 12,876
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(11-14-2018, 09:55 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: You can build the panels in the shop and nail the rails, stiles/mouldings, etc from the back, then install as a unit. Build up to an 8' long unit. Install with adhesive and a couple nails top and bottom to hold in place. Use 1/4" material for the panel back. I prefer a narrow crown stapler rather than a brad nailer. Glue them on.
You can also paint them prior to installation.
It may seem like more work, but it is really much quicker and results in a symmetrical layout.
I think Mike Farrington has an video on something like this.
Yes, I should have mentioned that. I try to make up everything in panels first, too, and then install them as units. It's the best option IMO for jobsite work. In my own house, however, I might take a different approach depending upon the circumstances. As retrofit work I would still go with premade and pre-finished panels.
John
Posts: 14,929
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Butler, PA
I'm not a pro and when I did do this for a living, many years ago, we hand nailed all trim, because finish nailers and brad nailers weren't readily available yet.
Anyway, I like to use a 15ga finish nailer for fastening door jambs and any trim that has to be nailed through drywall/plaster. I just think the heavier nail holds better. If nailing directly into wood jambs or framing, then I use an 18ga brad nailer.
Just my $.02.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
Posts: 233
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2006
Thanks all - very much appreciated. As usual I will use the advice - no 18 gauge for me!
Posts: 2,742
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
If you are going to paint the wainscot after installing and don't want to paint the wall, tape some waxed paper to the wall, lapping behind the top of the wainscot. Slop on the paint, then cut the paper with a razor knife along the top of the wainscot.
My boss is a Jewish carpenter. Our DADDY owns the business.
Trying to understand some people is like trying to pick up the clean end of a turd.
Posts: 247
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2009
When I replaced the baseboard in my house, like others, I painted them first. I used painters tape to mark the studs and shot the nails through it. I spackled over the holes and a little paint over that, take the tape off and was done.
Also, highly recommend knee pads when installing the baseboard or something soft for your knees.
Posts: 5,845
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2003
All 3 sizes would be best but a 15 and 18g would be my first two choices. You can buy refurbed Hitachis for a great bargain at Bigsky Tools and a few others on Ebay or the net. I’ve got a couple light green Hitachis and they are very good guns. Even the HF guns are decent for the money. The HF 23g pinner is a steal for the money. I’ve used mine a good amount and I still have a hard time believing I only paid $20 for it.
Posts: 10,771
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Front seat on the Struggle Bus
Since the newer 18ga nailers will shoot a 2 1/8" brad, I've found that works good for trim.
Ed