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If you use the ruler on the fence rail, it's not annoying at all. My old way of doing it was to line up the blade with a mark and then lock down the fence. The fence would move, so it was an iterative process. Now I realize if you match up to your mark and then start using the ruler, all that goes away. I'm not 100 percent convinced that I like doing that, but it's a lot better. There is a lot less going back and forth.
When I got the saw, I didn't like that the rail stuck fairly far off of the right end of the extension table, and didn't go all the way to the left of the blade. So the ruler has been off by 10" this whole time. I'm trying to decide if that really matters. But if I did move it over where it's supposed to be, I would cut it even with the end of the table.
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(11-23-2018, 06:04 PM)EricU Wrote: If you use the ruler on the fence rail, it's not annoying at all. My old way of doing it was to line up the blade with a mark and then lock down the fence. The fence would move, so it was an iterative process. Now I realize if you match up to your mark and then start using the ruler, all that goes away. I'm not 100 percent convinced that I like doing that, but it's a lot better. There is a lot less going back and forth.
When I got the saw, I didn't like that the rail stuck fairly far off of the right end of the extension table, and didn't go all the way to the left of the blade. So the ruler has been off by 10" this whole time. I'm trying to decide if that really matters. But if I did move it over where it's supposed to be, I would cut it even with the end of the table. For Beissmeyer fences and their clones, you can adjust the squaring pads so that they are virtually touching the rail when unlocked. This can greatly reduce or even eliminate the tendency for the French to shift when locking after adjustment.
I also use MicroJig’s Arbor Shims so that any blade installed on my saw aligns to the same plane on the fence side. This lets me use the rip fence scale without resetting between blade changes, AND means no need for adjusting the riving knife with different blades. The riving knife can be set and left.
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You will still see posts from time to time in which a woodworker will swear those scales are only for approximation, and they can't be set accurately enough for finished cuts. I believed that for a few years when i first got a table saw, then tried using the fence scale...it worked so well I quit measuring the distance with my tape. I like using it less on a left tilt saw (which I now have) versus the right tilt saw I used to have, but that's just me. On the right tilt, I could use it with the dado set.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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If it can't kill you it probably ain't no good. Better living through chemicals.
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fishhh4 has given you great advice!!!!!!
Take your time, get it exact...you will develop a whole new appreciation for your table saw. I have not used a tape measure to make a cut in years. Generally when I start a new project, I will make test cut just to double check.
You have a fine saw, you should enjoy using it.
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I went digital a few years back, I wouldn't even think of using a scale or tape measure again. Same thing for my planer very repeatable.
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11-24-2018, 11:49 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-24-2018, 11:52 AM by EricU.)
(11-24-2018, 08:00 AM)fishhh4 Wrote: Put a new one down .
You think I should take the old one up first?
I'm going to fiddle with the squaring adjustment today. Don't remember if I ever did that.
lift mechanic: do you have the wixy on your table saw? Can you zero it easily?
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I have a Shan on my table saw works great easy to zero. I have a Wixey on my planer and the way I have it mounted it is a pain to set to read correctly.
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11-24-2018, 12:31 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-24-2018, 12:39 PM by fishhh4.)
(11-24-2018, 11:49 AM)EricU Wrote: You think I should take the old one up first?
I'm going to fiddle with the squaring adjustment today. Don't remember if I ever did that.
lift mechanic: do you have the wixy on your table saw? Can you zero it easily?
It would depend .... Match the width etc .etc . They tend to lift some paint if you just rip it off. Flat razor may help. As said take your time. Set up two or three reference points with blue painters tape adjacent to your rule placement with a known measure. Many people offer them ...Rockler, Lee Valley, Peachtree. The last ones I got from Lee Valley. They come in steel as well. With steel little chance of stretching...distorting the true measure.
If it can't kill you it probably ain't no good. Better living through chemicals.
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If you do install a new one, I can tell you that the Starrett Measure Stix I got about ten years ago was about as accurate as they come.
They're steel, so they won't stretch.
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