How to repair plywood floor?
#11
I built my dream shop a couple years ago using 1-1/8" T&G plywood. Rolling my tool boxes and mobile machinery around I have noticed some small spots (4" x 6") that have sunk below the rest of the floor. There must have been a void in the plywood under the surface. My question is how to repair them? My thought was to make a template and route out the area sort of like you see in other areas of the plywood (boats) and over lapping on the larger (1) area. Any other thoughts on how to repair the floor. The floor is painted with a floor polyurathane paint.
Treat others as you want to be treated.

“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” — Mae West.
24- year cancer survivor
Reply
#12
you might be able to cut the area out, glue and screw some 3/4" thick supports around the perimeter underneath, then set a patch in.
Reply
#13
(12-12-2018, 03:39 PM)lift mechanic Wrote: I built my dream shop a couple years ago using 1-1/8" T&G  plywood. Rolling my tool boxes and mobile machinery around I have noticed some small spots (4" x 6") that have sunk below the rest of the floor. There must have been a void in the plywood under the surface. My question is how to repair them? My thought was to make a template and route out the area sort of like you see in other areas of the plywood (boats) and over lapping on the larger (1) area. Any other thoughts on how to repair the floor. The floor is painted with a floor polyurathane paint.

Yes... just route out the blemish to the depth of the flaw and glue in a dutchman patch.
WoodNET... the new safespace
Reply
#14
(12-12-2018, 05:00 PM)Splinter Puller Wrote: Yes... just route out the blemish to the depth of the flaw and glue in a dutchman patch.


Yes
Neil Summers Home Inspections




" What would Fred do?"

... CLETUS











Reply
#15
My concern is that the problem could be deeper than a void so make sure you check what's left of the floor after you route the recess.  If it's still soft you may need to cut it out, screw an oversize patch beneath the floor, then fill the hole with another patch.

Voids are the #1 suspect, but make sure you solve the whole problem so it doesn't migrate.

( and please don't ask me how I know this
Rolleyes
Laugh
Laugh !)
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
Reply
#16
(12-13-2018, 01:24 AM)Wild Turkey Wrote: My concern is that the problem could be deeper than a void so make sure you check what's left of the floor after you route the recess.  If it's still soft you may need to cut it out, screw an oversize patch beneath the floor, then fill the hole with another patch.

pretty much why i suggested the same. routing out the bad plys then there is only a couple plys supporting the dutchman-theres a good possibility that it will still be spongy.
Reply
#17
For that small of an area I would use a high compressive strength epoxy to level it and use a belt sander to make it even with the rest of the floor.  Even if it only lasts a few years it would be a good approach.

https://www.masterbond.com/properties/hi...ve-systems
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#18
(12-13-2018, 07:56 AM)tomsteve Wrote: pretty much why i suggested the same. routing out the bad plys then there is only a couple plys supporting the dutchman-theres a good possibility that it will still be spongy.

I figured it was common sense that if the void was deep then you do a dutchman in layers with each layer an inch larger then the one below.   I guess this was not implied.   

You don't even have to be too worried about the thickness of the patch matching as each subsequent route will mill the patch flush with the new recess.     The layering would only be needed if the void was deep in the floor... which it is most likely not as a deep void would not telegraph through as a weak spot in the first place.  common sense folks.
WoodNET... the new safespace
Reply
#19
Thanks for the replies, good suggestions. I would think on 1-1/8" plywood the void even if 1/2" deep would not weaken the area. but I will check for softness before putting the dutchman patch in. All the depressed areas seems to be 1 layer down in the plywood, so I guess I will be spending a couple hours on my knees.
Treat others as you want to be treated.

“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” — Mae West.
24- year cancer survivor
Reply
#20
You could also cut out the bad spot with a hole saw if it's small enough. Make a template out of MDF or something and use an angled router bit to cut a chamfer around the diameter of the hole. Make a round slug with the same thickness plywood, also with a chamfer. Make sure the slug sits flush in the hole and glue it in. If it's too big for a hole saw, use a jigsaw set at an angle and cut a square/rectangle hole and make a plug to match. It's a very strong repair.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




" What would Fred do?"

... CLETUS











Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.