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Good morning all, I have two projects I nearing the finishing stage. One is an white oak bookcase for one daughter, the other is a wine rack, for another daughter. Both wanted wood to match existing cabinets and I have accomplished that through gel stains.
What are suggestions for top coats? Lacquer? Original Waterlox? Rub on poly? Both projects are to be satin sheen.
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas!
T.Z.
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I would think you would want a durable film finish, and that (IMHO) would leave out the lacquer. Waterlox would be very good, but bear in mind it's a fairly dark varnish and may change the color of the wood more than you want. A good waterborne finish would need a warm room to dry in, and if you have that it would probably be my choice.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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12-23-2018, 11:00 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-23-2018, 11:01 AM by Kansas City Fireslayer.)
Tony,
Are you set up to spray? Are you more comfortable with any particular finish? Sometimes the best finish can be the finish you’re best at.
The wine rack shouldn’t need an extra durable finish, IMO. The bookcase could need a more durable finish.
I’ll have to disagree with lacquer not being a durable finish. Deft rattle can lacquer isn’t very durable but pre-catalyzed lacquers would work excellent for most bookcases. I used pre cat lacquer on a big walnut bookcase unit I built a few years back and the finish is plenty durable. It’s loaded with books, pictures, and other fluff that appeases my wife. No scratches, sticking of books, or chipping. And my family pays little regard to minimizing wear and tear with a full time repair man on staff. The pre cat has held up perfectly.
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I agree that the catalyzed lacquers are very durable, my reference to durability was with non catalyzed NC lacquer. My belief is that very few of us use catalyzed products.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Fred, I agree. I am using mostly GF waterbourne products now with Seal Coat as my sanding sealer. I would still consider PC lacquer if I were doing new kitchen or built in cabinets.
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Waterlox or a rub on poly?
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You pick. The urethane is going to be lighter than the Waterlox in color. I don't use any urethane products, preferring alkyd varnishes....and if I wasn't going to use Waterlox, I'd use either P&L 38 or SW Fast Dry Oil Varnish, thinned 50/50 with MS and wipe that on.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Thanks Fred, I'm leaning towars the SW Fast Dry oil varnish.
