Drawer Slides

[TadMcD]

The carcase is already assembled. I think I have enough room to put some cleats in there...

My current problem is finding a definitive "How To" for the NK slides/runners. Seems like a rabbet in a rounded over piece attached to the sides of the drawers is the "magic?"

I'm confused by all the discussions about a bottom "sled." Seems I'm missing something, especially as it relates to the drawer sides (positioning and/or how they "fit" into the runners).

I have the feeling I'm over complicating this.

[DaveR1]

The carcase is already assembled. I think I have enough room to put some cleats in there...

My current problem is finding a definitive "How To" for the NK slides/runners. Seems like a rabbet in a rounded over piece attached to the sides of the drawers is the "magic?"

I'm confused by all the discussions about a bottom "sled." Seems I'm missing something, especially as it relates to the drawer sides (positioning and/or how they "fit" into the runners).

I have the feeling I'm over complicating this.

As Fred suggested, you can use cleats attached to the sides of the opening. You can make gauge blocks to support the cleats while you attach them with screws.

With NK-style drawers, the drawer bottom has runners attached to it. In a traditional drawer with no metal runners, the drawer sides would act as the runners. Here's a quickie sketch. I'm showing it as an inset drawer. Click on it for a larger view. The runners can be made out of a hardwood and don't have to match the drawer side material. You could even make the runners out of Delrin or other slick plastic. If you only secure the runners with screws, they can be replaced in a hundred years when they've worn out. The runners are rabbeted to receive the drawer bottom.

You make the bottom assembly (I suppose it could be called the sled) slightly over width and fit it into the opening before attaching the drawer box to it. The drawer box is made slightly narrower than the opening so that the sides don't touch anything and for inset drawer, the bottom edge of the drawer front is cut so it is slightly higher than the bottom face of the runners so it doesn't foul on anything. 

Once the drawer bottom fits into the opening and slides nicely, attach the drawer box. The front edge of the drawer bottom extends forward of the runners by 1/4 in. or so and fits into a groove plowed into the back of the drawer front. You can either glue or screw the box to the bottom assembly. Screws make it reversible.

I didn't show any joinery for the drawer box. You can use whatever method you like. Dovetails, sliding dovetails, locked rabbets, etc.

Hopefully that clarifies it.

[TadMcD]

Well, that's certainly a lot clearer than anything I've found. Just fantastic.

Thank you.

[DaveR1]

Well, that's certainly a lot clearer than anything I've found. Just fantastic.

Thank you.

You're quite welcome. To be honest, I don't know why the NK drawers aren't used more often. I wouldn't use metal drawer glides in most furniture and probably not in any shop cabinets. For kitchen drawers they make sense because they get used so much.

Fitting the drawer bottom "sled" is much easier than fitting a whole drawer box, too. You can see what you are doing and what areas need attention.

[rwe2156]

Good example of why plans are just guidelines and you need to measure from reality for some things.

I calculate drawer width = opening - 1 1/32".

Don't worry about screws hitting each other.

Cut two pieces of plywood to support slides when installing. Start at top go down, cutting plywood down to the appropriate size as you go.

You will probably discover a right angle drill is next on your tool list ;-) OR install slides prior to assembly.

FWIW I really like the truss head slide screws.  Rockler carries them as well as Amazon.

[TadMcD]

This is the ruler it feels like I use when I build something...only I'm not that precise.

[DaveR1]

This is the ruler it feels like I use when I build something...only I'm not that precise.

That should get you pretty close, though. 

[petertay15]

Here is FWW article on various drawers, including NK-style.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdffr...009049.pdf

[TadMcD]

Thank you.

I got the drawers made today, but they're too close to the edges of the drawer slides...maybe 1/32 narrower than the bottom/slides. All the pix I've seen show the drawer sort of sitting between the slides and bottom (i.e., the line between the slides and the bottom shelf should intersect the middle of the drawer sides; not sure if that makes sense).

Just have to cut the front/back about 1/8" narrower and the drawer should sit nicely on the bottom while still leaving the largest drawer that's feasible.

I have to keep telling myself this is a shop tool (but I try to be as precise as possible to learn/build skills).

I do have a rather puzzling problem when it comes to fitting the drawer faces to the bit drawers...pictures would be best to tell that story and solicit advice. I'm nearly exsanguinating from scratching my head over that one...

[Stwood_]

Overlay drawer fronts? I have a pic tutorial somewhere.