Contractor skipped- Looking on the bright side... wiring my shop...

[Brucej]

Built new shop! Yea! Contractor skipped and left the shop more or less finished...
Except open walls, no ceiling and drum roll please... very limited wiring... 1 220 outlet and 2 120 outlet and one light. Have one 200Amp sub and was supposed to be wired to a second 200Amp sub (more as a convenience and to save on wiring)

I am looking at this as an opportunity. I know a lot of electrical and have installed several complete cuircits for several washers and driers for my bride in a couple of housed we have lived.
I have (and probably will again) had a certified electrition review and make final connections. Seems this help with insurance issues.. And my comfort.

I am looking for ideas, suggestions etc to make my shop very flexible.

The shop os basically an "ell" The long portion (wood shop) is 45 x 20 and then the short shop (metal /stain glass working) is 20 x 18.

I have the following tools
(big power tools)
3 hp 220 v tale saw
Woodmaster 725 7.5 hp molder/shaper with dual routers. 220 & 120
5hp  Dust collector oneida 220v
Powermatic Table saw 120 v

normal load stuff - currently have
36x18 Artie CNC
Various routers
14" band saw
9" band saw
Midi lathe
horizontal boring machine
3d Printer
Drill press
Chop saw
Oscillating sander

To be added in next year or so...
Welder (mig)
Miter saw
Joiner
25" drum sander
48: Edge sander
Lathe (wood)

I planned on have 2 rows of outlets, on at 18" from floor and then another about 50" above floor.
I wass planning on sheeting the whole shop in 3"/4 ply wood, but due to funds (that the contractor skipped with) I may or may not do this.
The back wall is 8' High retaining wall with 4' above and all other walls are 12" open framed (no insulation)
I have under floor access in the wood shop, but not the medal shop.

I have heard of wiring troughs and it sounds like these may be a great idea to add flexibility. I am thinking of these at the top of each wall.
I am wondering if I should be using surface mounted conduit (pvc or plastic) or staple to frame (not very flexible once done.)

I am looking for suggestions and good books etc.


Thanks!
Mc

[fredhargis]

I don't see a reason to have the 2 rows of outlets (18" and 50"). Instead I would (and did) just install quad boxes at the 50" level. While i do have a couple of 18" outlets in my shop they are at the windows...and truthfully I've never missed having them low. Same in the mechanic shop room...quads at the 50" level. Some will suggest that in the quad box, each duplex be on a separate circuit, and that's a great idea even though it's does increase the amount of wire you use (these should be all 20A circuits, and don't forget the GFCIs). I put a mix of 240V outlets in , mostly 20A, but each wall has at least one 30A as well....and I have one 50A for a welder. At the ceiling height (mine are at 8', for a 10' ceiling) I have the DC outlet (2 actually, since I wasn't sure where the DC would wind up) and a few 120V outlets. My DC remote requires a 120V for the remote and I have an outlet for the ceiling hung furnace. In the ceiling itself I also put outlets (all of them, 240V 30 and 20A, along with 12V) since I have an island of tools in the middle of the floor. I don't have inspections to worry about, but I did try to follow all the code information I could gather and I suspect I still missed some things. You might ask here about the 2 subs...I'm not sure that's allowed in the manner you described.

[R Clark]

Hope you didn't lose too much when the contractor skipped.

It sounds like you are looking at an unfortunate turn as an opportunity; that's good.

I moved to a property with a separate outbuilding with an 80A subpanel.  The building is stick-framed and was not insulated.  There's a loft area that has OSB floor, but otherwise, there was no ceiling above the shop.

I had an electrician come in and reconfigure and add circuits based on a plan I drew out.  My 110V circuits are all 20A circuits.  Most 220V circuits are 20A, but there's one 30A circuit I had installed just in case.  After the electrical work was done, we insulated, and then put up a drywall ceiling and OSB walls.

All of my outlets are 48" above the floor.  In the five years we've been there, I have never had a situation where I wished for an outlet 18" above the floor.  In fact, that would "cramp my style"; I tend to use all of my wall space for one thing or another and a lower set of outlets would offend my sensibilities as I hate covering up outlets.

[daddo]

Future tools are a consideration. Upgraded tools, more tools, tools you never expected to have, tools that don't exist yet.

[Roly]

When you check the price of wiring troughs you might rethink using them.   I don't see a problem with subs off of subs as long as they are installed properly, most large buildings are like that.    Roly

[Admiral]

As far as books go, Taunton Press' "Wiring a House" is highly recommended by me; I never wired more than a lamp, but this book has guided me through two soup to nuts shop wiring jobs (to service equipment comparable to yours - except for the welder), and countless other electrical issues that have popped up.  Its well written, easy to follow and understand, and more than reasonably comprehensive.  Its the first thing I consult when an electrical issue arises and I've never had to look anywhere else.  Takes you from installation of line service to multiple switch wiring.  I even bought the new edition a few years ago, and would not be without it.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-Comp...162710674X

[EricU]

In my shop, I only put a few 120 outlets at 18", and they are by the outside door. Everything else is at 48". Turned out that I wanted 220v outlets there at the 48" level there.  I figured having outlets handy to the outside door would be a good idea and they didn't really have to be above the mess, since it usually doesn't make it that close to the door.

I didn't see anything in the OP that would suggest any wiring scheme other than romex. Although I used drywall and I can poke holes in the wall any time I want to add more wires.

[Wild Turkey]

I am finishing my new shop.  I wired 110 v duplex outlets every 4' at 48" off the floor and 220 v outlets every 8'.

Already wish I had put in more 220 v outlets for flexibility.

I used GFCI breakers for the 110 v circuits.  I don't trust the outlets -- had too many problems with them.

As mentioned you have no idea what next few years will bring so putting in more than you need now could pay off big time in the future.

[Foggy]

Unless there will normally be more than one person at a time working in the shop there is no need for more than two 120 volt circuits, or multiple 240 volt circuits. How many tools can you run at one time? But lots of outlets so everything can remain plugged in.
I ran thinwall[emt] conduit on the surface to 4x4 boxes, double duplex receipts at 48" Easy to change or add to later. It's a shop, not a parlor, so appearance is not critical.
Conduit and receipts on the ceiling surface would allow for easy relocation for changing lighting needs. Lights on short cords plugged in, hung on chains.
I ran all the circuits [except lighting] through a contactor, [I used an old magnetic starter with 120 volt coil]. The coil is turned on/off with a lighted switch. One pass of the hand turns power off to everything. No worry "Did I remember to turn off XYX?" Two receipts do not go through the contactor. They are red colored and dedicated to chargers or whatever I may want to stay on while I am away.
I hung two 4x4 boxes with receipts from the ceiling by light chain. an S hook on the back of the box allows it to be hooked up the chain a ways to be out of the way. These are powered by rubber cord with ty-wraps to the chain. The chain takes all the strain so there is no strain on the cord. This gives me power to a bench away from the wall. You could do the same with 240 volt for free standing tools.

[EricU]

I am finishing my new shop.  I wired 110 v duplex outlets every 4' at 48" off the floor and 220 v outlets every 8'.

Already wish I had put in more 220 v outlets for flexibility.

I used GFCI breakers for the 110 v circuits.  I don't trust the outlets -- had too many problems with them.

Why do you want more 220v outlets?  Just so you can move things more easily?  I may wish I had done that for my jointer, because I can't leave it in one place..

I have 4 30 amp 220v outlets because my metal lathe, my tablesaw, and my milling machine all use that.  The 20 amp 220v has the wood lathe, the dust collector, the jointer, and the bandsaw.  I think there are 6 outlets on that circuit.

I put AFCI/GFCI outlets in to protect the 120v circuits.  Haven't had reason to regret it yet.  Hoping it stays that way