Dresser dados slipping

[Willyou]

Whether you use pocket hole screws or dowels, I would make a couple of mock-ups and try doing it as many times as necessary to get comfortable with the process.

As mentioned above, before you start on the final drilling and gluing, Try as best you can to open the joints and clean them out. Then re-glue and clamp before you drill and insert screws or dowels. It looks like you have enough leg width to insert 3. I would put one in at the top centered on the leg and 2 on either side from the bottom (or the reverse).

If you decide to use dowels, I would still use the pocket screw drilling jig to give you more precision in drilling the hole in a rather awkward position. Just slide the drill stop way back to get a deeper hole and use a dowel the same diameter as the drill.

[Rob Young]

"Squirting in more glue" if the glue is something like a PVA or similar will never hold. Glues like that don't bond to each other or fill gaps.

If you can clean out the old stuff and then use an epoxy just in case there are gaps along with a mechanical reinforcement you will probably be ahead of the game.

[Willyou]

"Squirting in more glue" if the glue is something like a PVA or similar will never hold. Glues like that don't bond to each other or fill gaps.

If you can clean out the old stuff and then use an epoxy just in case there are gaps along with a mechanical reinforcement you will probably be ahead of the game.

I agree. But, I think that the only way to "properly" clean up all the joints is to completely dis-assemble the chest, clean out the old glue, shim the dadoes to tighten them up, re-glue and assemble. If you were to do all that, I think you should insert dowels in the traditional fashion into each joint.

The above might be the right way, but is pretty drastic. Lacking the ability or desire to do that, just pull the joints tightly together with clamps and put hardwood dowels at each leg as discussed above. Multiple dowels at each leg will provide the strength needed to hold it together.

[Phil Thien]

I routinely re-glue with epoxy w/o cleaning-up the old glue.  The epoxy seems to set before doing anything to the PVA, and the stuck-on PVA seems to provide lots of key/bite for the epoxy.

So I'd probably also do the pocket-hole screws, but I'd slather some epoxy into the joints first, clamp them tight, then run the screws in.

[brax71]

I hadn't considered epoxy...  maybe I try that without screws/dowels and see if it'll hold.  Kind of proceeding up the scale of invasiveness/severity -- if the epoxy lets go, then try epoxy + screws/dowels. 

Again, thanks to all for the supportive and helpful input!

[ez-duzit]

Unless you clean off the old glue (which is what you should do) epoxy will likely not bond, though you should have used epoxy to begin with. Please don't ruin it with pocket hole screws. Better to drill holes through the frame using a Fuller bit, screw and plug, though dowels may work well if they are epoxied.

[Willyou]

I hadn't considered epoxy...  maybe I try that without screws/dowels and see if it'll hold.  Kind of proceeding up the scale of invasiveness/severity -- if the epoxy lets go, then try epoxy + screws/dowels. 

Again, thanks to all for the supportive and helpful input!

I strongly recommend that you don't do this. Even with epoxy, assuming there are no adhesion problems, dados alone don't have enough resistance to racking in a piece this size. In a short time, racking will weaken or break the joints again. If you are going to take the time and make the effort to repair the chest, do it as suggested above. IMO, multiple hardwood dowels in each joint will work best.

Another point that hasn't been discussed is the back. Most casework has a back that is installed in such a way that it adds rigidity to the piece. 1/4" ply works very well for this and has no seasonal movement concens. If this chest doesn't have a back, you should add one. Or, if it is not securely attached, you should do so.

[rwe2156]

Stop - you don't need to pull the cast apart!!

This is a relatively simple fix I've done before successfully.  Pull the case together with clamps, remove drawers and install a screw that crosses the joint.  I would use a trim head screw.  It will not be visible when the drawers are back in. You'll need a right angle drill to do this.

The other (stronger but not as aesthetic) option, is to simply screw from the ends and cover with plug.

The reason the joints failed is end grain glue doesn't hold.

[Stwood_]

I don't know. If it was in front of me, I'd probably pull it apart and re-glue. And as above, fix the dresser so it doesn't rack sideways anymore. I feel that's probably what has helped destruct your piece.

[Gary G™]

We’re missing data:

Are all the dados tight top to bottom?
Do the drawers ride on the panels (web frame) or on runners?
Do you remove the drawers before lifting and moving the dresser or move it while full?
What’s the inner web look like?
Was the lumber dry and at equilibrium when you built this?

Not sure if I left anything important out.

Given what I see at this point, I’d be disassembling the case, cleaning the old glue out, making any necessary adjustments and re-gluing it.