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I would consider moving the bottom rail up and raising the bottom panel (or adding another 1/2" thick on top of it), then scribe the sides and toe kick to the floor for the correct height during install.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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Half inch too tall? Pfft, I made one of my kitchen cabinets 2 inches too wide! (long story)
To fix that I ripped it off with my circular saw in steps.
There was a separate cut for the face frame, the back, and then the top and bottom - all accounting for the various thicknesses and placements so it all came back together correctly, just two inches over in final dimensions.
Take some time to look it over and think about what needs to be done first and maybe that method will work for you.
Ray
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(06-15-2019, 01:32 PM)Bob Lang Wrote: Not to come across as a complete shill, but my book, The Complete Kitchen Cabinetmaker
https://readwatchdo.com/2014/05/the-comp...inetmaker/
is likely to be what you're looking for. I wrote it to reflect how the guys who make kitchens for a living do things and show the realistic options for someone with a typical small shop.
One thing that will help you is to focus on making perfect parts. Life is much easier if all the pieces are straight, square and the proper size, even if the sheet goods aren't.
Just want to second that Bob Lang's book helped me tremendously with my kitchen cabinet build. I looked at a lot of cabinet books before I started, but Bob's book is comprehensive enough that it really is the only book you need. Can't say enough good things about it. And if Mr. Lang happens to read this post, I want to say thanks for your book- it has been a great resource.
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(06-24-2019, 07:53 AM)ajkoontz Wrote: Just want to second that Bob Lang's book helped me tremendously with my kitchen cabinet build. I looked at a lot of cabinet books before I started, but Bob's book is comprehensive enough that it really is the only book you need. Can't say enough good things about it. And if Mr. Lang happens to read this post, I want to say thanks for your book- it has been a great resource.
Thank you for the kind words!
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(06-24-2019, 08:18 AM)Bob Lang Wrote: Thank you for the kind words!
I've not read Bob's book, but know of his skills.
One thing you might consider for the carcasses is pre-finished ply. I made some built-in tall cabinets a few years ago and it saved tons of finishing time.
And that crappy Chinese ply is just a pain to work with -- splinters from ultra thin surface veneer, voids, layers that just fall apart, overlapping plies on layers and warpage. I call it the 7-13 ply 3/4" plywood depending on where you look. Used it once -- never again.
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I bought these two books years ago, not long after I became interested in WW, and found them to be very informative and well written.
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This is probably the first woodworking book I bought as I was just starting in woodwork seriously. It was years before I built anything I could call a cabinet, but helped me understand joinery, doors, and drawers in any kind of casework. It's now out of print (apparently) and the price is high, but there are some used ones on Amazon.
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(06-15-2019, 01:32 PM)Bob Lang Wrote: Not to come across as a complete shill, but my book, The Complete Kitchen Cabinetmaker
https://readwatchdo.com/2014/05/the-comp...inetmaker/
is likely to be what you're looking for. I wrote it to reflect how the guys who make kitchens for a living do things and show the realistic options for someone with a typical small shop.
One thing that will help you is to focus on making perfect parts. Life is much easier if all the pieces are straight, square and the proper size, even if the sheet goods aren't.
Bob, your book is excellent! Truly!
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(06-30-2019, 04:33 PM)jgourlay Wrote: Bob, your book is excellent! Truly!
Thanks, glad you like it.
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Go to Old House.com and go to New Yankee videos. Season 20 has a great group of how to make them. He goes through the whole process in episode 1 & 2.
John
Always use the right tool for the job.
We need to clean house.