Posts: 21,259
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
(07-16-2019, 11:19 PM)daddo Wrote: You would search for the bearings number. Powermatic doesn't make bearings- they get them from a supplier. I would think it would be a common bearing. Sometimes you have to go metric sizing to get what you want if it is a hard to find bearing. That's what I had to do with the USA made 60 year old milling machine.
You might start a search here- https://www.nodeshk.com/timken/catalog/
I've used a lot of SKF bearings and have been very happy with them.
I would guess you may have a double row/angular contact bearing to take the load.
Thanks Chris
When I get it off I feel I might as well replace them so no more worries.
Also the threaded end after the point what threads are these anyway. I was thinking of making something to fit the end but right now do not remember what it is for.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 370
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2007
You may want to check Applied Industrial they are pretty good at getting bearings
Posts: 144
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
(07-18-2019, 07:19 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: Don and Bob
I have the brass retainer plate unscrewed but it is being held up by the steel thing in front of it. Is that the part you above you said to pry off??
Also I did see where the brass retainer was very lock on and once I started loosing it then it was spin freely. So should I even mess with it taking it all the way off???
Arlin,
I am not sure what you mean. To old to remember exactly what it looked like -- did the brass ring stay on or not. The whole unit can be remove from the casing, That is when I oiled the bearings. The bearing are kept on the shaft with e-clips and should be remove with special tool -easier than trying them off.
Like I said once oiled the bearing were fine and a lot cheaper than new bearings. I would try the oil first.
Don't want to take it apart,. but I could if you need pictures.
Bob
Posts: 21,259
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
(07-19-2019, 07:59 PM)bob-t Wrote: Arlin,
I am not sure what you mean. To old to remember exactly what it looked like -- did the brass ring stay on or not. The whole unit can be remove from the casing, That is when I oiled the bearings. The bearing are kept on the shaft with e-clips and should be remove with special tool -easier than trying them off.
Like I said once oiled the bearing were fine and a lot cheaper than new bearings. I would try the oil first.
Don't want to take it apart,. but I could if you need pictures.
Bob
Bob
I assume the brass retainer plate was completely unscrewed but would not go over the steel center. So what I did do is spray some WD40 under the brass retainer and then sprayed the hole above where the shaft can be locked where the two hole are across from each other. I sprayed some lithium grease in it and to wash it down used more WD40.
Then I screwed the brass retainer back down and it works fine so I will leave it as is for now.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 24,145
Threads: 2
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Missouri
(07-19-2019, 09:34 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: I sprayed some lithium grease in it and to wash it down used more WD40.
Then I screwed the brass retainer back down and it works fine so I will leave it as is for now.
I've found that that works, most times, on most bearings.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
Posts: 5,421
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2001
Location: Troy IL
07-20-2019, 10:07 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-20-2019, 12:39 PM by Woodshop.)
(07-18-2019, 07:26 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: Also the threaded end after the point what threads are these anyway. I was thinking of making something to fit the end but right now do not remember what it is for.
Hi Arlin
to help you understand the inside of the live center I found this on line, it is a oneway but the PM is the same and the thread is a 3/4 x 10. I made several things and taped them 3/4 x 10 for holding odd shapes. I assume you have the cone point for yours . one nice accessory is the oneway large bull nose that can be reversed as a cup.
oneway https://www.amazon.com/Oneway-Bull-Nose-Cone-Centers/dp/B07SRHDVRR/Oneway Bull Nose Cone very handy
link to oneway bearing replacement not sure if it was the best way to go about it, But it worked for him. I never had to take mine apart.
http://lehighvalleywoodturners.com/wp-co...cement.pdf
Life is what you make of it, change your thinking, change your life!
Don's woodshop
Posts: 21,259
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
(07-20-2019, 10:07 AM)Woodshop Wrote: Hi Arlin
to help you understand the inside of the live center I found this on line, it is a oneway but the PM is the same and the thread is a 3/4 x 10. I made several things and taped them 3/4 x 10 for holding odd shapes. I assume you have the cone point for yours . one nice accessory is the oneway large bull nose that can be reversed as a cup. oneway https://www.amazon.com/Oneway-Bull-Nose-Cone-Centers/dp/B07SRHDVRR/Oneway Bull Nose Cone very handy
link to oneway bearing replacement not sure if it was the bast way to go about it, But it worked for him. I never had to take mine apart. http://lehighvalleywoodturners.com/wp-co...cement.pdf
Thanks Don
I wish I could send him mine.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 13,412
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
I would have never thought they'd use a regular 6202 bearing for such a purpose.
Would be nice if they had a tapered bearing to replace at least one of them.