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(10-06-2019, 12:06 PM)stoppy Wrote: I'm not a big table saw user yet. Just cleared all the turning blanks off of it a couple weeks ago. Cutting hard maple into 1.25" strips. Near the end of a cut the blade burns one side of the cut. Fence is parallel to the blade. What am I doing wrong? I'm using a push stick.
Your saw blade is probably not square with the Miter slot. Measure the distance from the miter slot to a tooth at the front of the blade , then rotate the blade so you are checking the same tooth, then measure at the rear of the blade. Your fence adjusts to the table so if it isn't parallel it will pinch your work as you finish your cut.
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It’s a model 113.27521 vintage Craftsman Tilting arbor bench saw. I’m 77 and will not be upgrading this saw unless I win the lotto that I don’t play. I googled it online and found some people who have upgraded the fence, put a link belt on it, and machined pulleys. I also looked at the MicroJig splitter and am considering a zero clearance insert. Since this will be my saw for the remainder of my life are these upgrades worthwhile?
Jim
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(10-07-2019, 07:13 PM)stoppy Wrote: It’s a model 113.27521 vintage Craftsman Tilting arbor bench saw. I’m 77 and will not be upgrading this saw unless I win the lotto that I don’t play. I googled it online and found some people who have upgraded the fence, put a link belt on it, and machined pulleys. I also looked at the MicroJig splitter and am considering a zero clearance insert. Since this will be my saw for the remainder of my life are these upgrades worthwhile?
Yes, anything you do to make your saw safer is worthwhile, I'm 84 and I bought my craftsman saw when I was about 25 years old and have been using it all these years. I keep it well tuned and aligned and I have no problem with it at all. Good blades and try to pay attention LOL!
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(10-07-2019, 02:24 PM)Dumb_Polack Wrote: Don't tell anyone, but this past weekend I installed a blade backwards and it burned like hail!!!
Can I get an "Amen" from the other fellers here who have done this???
Can't say I ever installed a table saw blade backwards, but pretty much the same thing happens when you install a bandsaw blade upside down. DAMHIKT
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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10-08-2019, 08:57 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-08-2019, 09:04 AM by MichaelMouse.)
(10-07-2019, 02:24 PM)Dumb_Polack Wrote: Don't tell anyone, but this past weekend I installed a blade backwards and it burned like hail!!!
Can I get an "Amen" from the other fellers here who have done this??? Well I'm just Polish (or Ukrainian or Austrian depending on year) by heritage, but I can't say I've done a reverse. Had a H*LL of a time when I set up my left-leaning saw, though. Six months or more after first catching on to the right-hand thread, it finally became automatic.
For the OP, dull blades burn on the edges of the proud carbide teeth. Dirty/squirming overfed thin blades make dark on the body of the blade. Trailing edge of the wood is common because you're lifting the push stick and losing control, or the wood's inner tension is causing it to close the kerf with a twist. I use "shoe" pushsticks out of ply similar to https://i.ytimg.com/vi/W9oyt2gj0ek/maxresdefault.jpg which hold more of the wood and help the control problem, as well as go right on over the blade for thin rips. Why fuss about slitting them, when I can make as many more as I need.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Thanks MM, now have 3/4 plywood Powertec look alike pushstick. Scrapwood out the kazoo I have for projects like this
Since I was using a plain push sick with no hold capabilities I think that's where the burn came from. Since i have more butcher block gifts to make I'll find out. Measured the blade to the miter slot and it is right on the money.
Jim
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Broccoli doesn’t like you either.
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(10-08-2019, 10:02 AM)stoppy Wrote: Thanks MM, now have 3/4 plywood Powertec look alike pushstick. Scrapwood out the kazoo I have for projects like this
Since I was using a plain push sick with no hold capabilities I think that's where the burn came from. Since i have more butcher block gifts to make I'll find out. Measured the blade to the miter slot and it is right on the money.
How thick is the stock? and how high is your blade?
Matt
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Heat. It is heat that is causing the burning.
What is causing the heat?
Friction. It is friction that is causing the heat.
What is causing the friction?
Wood being pushed/pulled against a part of the blade that isn't removing the woods advancing surface fast enough before heat builds up.
Dull blade, dirty blade, blade with worn kerf, feed is not parallel to the blade: Blade out of alignment. fence surface not straight or out of alignment, blade vibrating, user pushing wood out of alignment. Not using properly aligned splitter or no splitter, tension wood, warped top or just plain magic.
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10-08-2019, 05:30 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-08-2019, 05:34 PM by stoppy.)
(10-08-2019, 03:23 PM)mdhills Wrote: How thick is the stock? and how high is your blade?
Matt
Stock is an 11/8 inches thick. It's hard maple (old bowling lane approach wood) and dyed laminated woods for the contrasting woods. Blade was at about !1/4 inches high
Jim
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Broccoli doesn’t like you either.
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(10-06-2019, 12:06 PM)stoppy Wrote: I'm not a big table saw user yet. Just cleared all the turning blanks off of it a couple weeks ago. Cutting hard maple into 1.25" strips. Near the end of a cut the blade burns one side of the cut. Fence is parallel to the blade. What am I doing wrong? I'm using a push stick.
Some hardwoods are prone to burning especially when stopping a second to push the stock thru. Cherry is known for that and maybe maple too.
I use a stock feeder when ripping any amount of hardwood more than a couple of rips. Lacking a stock feeder try to push the maple thru evenly and if possible without pausing. Like mentioned ,sharp blade makes a difference. If the burned area gets glued up then forget it won't matter anyhow.. If that area will be seen, clean it up with a card scraper.
mike
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