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I know that on a solid wood panel door the panel must be sized for expansion between the frame members. I'm in the process of making two narrow doors and plan on using 1/4 in baltic birch plywood for the panel. The rail and stile members are birch. Since the baltic plywood is considered a pretty stable product, I'm wondering how much gap i need to leave, if any, when fitting the panel in the frame. I'm thinking i can make the tolerance pretty tight and avoid any rattle without using a larger gap and rubber space balls. Thoughts and input appreciated.
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10-04-2019, 10:15 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-07-2019, 11:04 AM by Hank Knight.)
(10-04-2019, 10:09 AM)meanderawl Wrote: I know that on a solid wood panel door the panel must be sized for expansion between the frame members. I'm in the process of making two narrow doors and plan on using 1/4 in baltic birch plywood for the panel. The rail and stile members are birch. Since the baltic plywood is considered a pretty stable product, I'm wondering how much gap i need to leave, if any, when fitting the panel in the frame. I'm thinking i can make the tolerance pretty tight and avoid any rattle without using a larger gap and rubber space balls. Thoughts and input appreciated.
meanderawlwoodshop.blog
You shouldn't have any issues with expansion and contraction of BB ply drawer bottoms. I usually glue BB ply drawer bottoms in. That adds a lot of strength to the drawer. All of the BB ply bottoms in my shop drawers are glued in.
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(10-04-2019, 10:15 AM)Hank Knight Wrote: You shouldn't have any issues with expansion and contraction of BB ply drawer bottoms. I usually glue BB ply drawer bottoms in. That adds a lit of strength to the drawer. All of the BB ply bottoms in my shop drawers are glued in.
Same here. I glue plywood panels in drawers and doors. Incredibly strong; never had a glue joint fail.
John
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Same. Glue them in. Maybe size them a 1/16" under so there's no interference when assembling them.
Steve
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10-09-2019, 08:58 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-09-2019, 08:58 AM by rwe2156.)
Space balls won't prevent rattle. They are just to allow for movement & keep panel centered. Rattling is caused by to loose fitting groove.
Using plywood I would make the panel 1/16" narrower to allow for easier assembly.
Gluing the panel is best way to avoid rattle.
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Thanks all for the input. Feel a lot more comfortable now with sizing the panels to the frames. Now I"m experimenting and still need to figure out how to get stained plywood to match stained hardwood frames lol.
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(10-11-2019, 09:03 PM)meanderawl Wrote: Thanks all for the input. Feel a lot more comfortable now with sizing the panels to the frames. Now I"m experimenting and still need to figure out how to get stained plywood to match stained hardwood frames lol.
Don't buy ply which has rotary cut veneer.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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(10-04-2019, 10:09 AM)meanderawl Wrote: I know that on a solid wood panel door the panel must be sized for expansion between the frame members. I'm in the process of making two narrow doors and plan on using 1/4 in baltic birch plywood for the panel. The rail and stile members are birch. Since the baltic plywood is considered a pretty stable product, I'm wondering how much gap i need to leave, if any, when fitting the panel in the frame. I'm thinking i can make the tolerance pretty tight and avoid any rattle without using a larger gap and rubber space balls. Thoughts and input appreciated.
meanderawlwoodshop.blog
As mentioned 1/16" undersized aids in installing the plywood. I never used space balls, old and tried way is to center panel ,short brad nail in the center of the vertical panel. One brad at top and one at bottom. Now I use a pin nailer with 1/2" pins. I do not glue the panels, though all of my panels were solid wood and glue with them would have cracked the panel.
mike
