A sawing issue that needs advice

[joemac]

I am trying to make a traditional rolling pin that would be about 3" in diameter and 15" long, then add handles.  I first glue up a blank and then plan on turning it into a cylinder- all pretty straightforward stuff.  The problem arises because I want to incorporate a Celtic Cross into the pin.  To do this, before turning, you must true up the blank, making the sides square to each other, with both sides being equal and therefore making a long square.  To make the Celtic Cross, you first mark the mid point of the long edge, then strike a line 5" on each side of the center line.  Then mark the diagonal between the outside lines.  This line is about 60 degrees across the blank (I hope you can follow my poor explanation!).  I then made a crosscut sled for my tablesaw, and put in blocks which held the blank so that when I ran it through the saw, it made a cut of 60 degrees, starting 5" from one end of the blank, exiting on the opposite side 5" from the other end, cutting the blank in two pieces at 60 degrees.  I then take a piece of contrasting wood which is the thickness of my saw blade (the removed kerf width) and glue it between the two pieces.  Next, (after the glue dries) spin the blank 90 degrees and repeat.  Do this until I have made four cuts in the blank and inserted four contrasting, thin pieces of wood, one in each side.

Long way around the barn to get to my problem:  When I make those four 60 degree cuts, the blade doesn't go high enough to get through the 1/2 jig and the 3" blank.  It is about 3/8" too short.  For this to work, it is critical that the four cuts start and end at the same place on each side.  If I flip the blank over, I could cut the 3/8" off, but it isn't exactly flat & flush with the first cut and therefore the thin blank won't glue up strong.  As it is I am gluing partial end grain to side grain, to end grain with the contrasting wood sandwich, not the best thing for something that needs to be strong.

Any ideas of some way to get either a larger blade or make the cut evenly and completely through the blank?

[jteneyck]

Finish the cuts with a handsaw and then use a hand plane to trim the excess flush.  

John

[stav]

Can you make these cuts on your miter saw (assuming you have a 12" miter saw)?

[daddo]

Lessen the diameter of the pin. ?

[Alan S]

You're making the cuts with a crosscut sled.  Can you make one with a thinner (or no) base?

[jgrogan]

i am making rolling pins right now and have made 4 different styles and sizes.  My largest one was 1 3/4 x 20 and the smallest was 1 5/8 x 18"

It seems to me that a 3" is pretty big.

[Turner52]

I ran into the same problem with one of my vases. DISCLAIMER. I am not telling you to do this, but this is what I did. Have a 10" saw. I put a 12" blade on it. I could not raise it all the way or it hit saw metal. Could not lower it all the way or it hit again. But the sweet spot did allow me to pick up the extra heighth I nedded. After I was done I imediatly removed the blade so I didn't forget and make a mistake.

[Wild Turkey]

Could you flip and rotate the blank and finish the cut from the opposite side?

[joemac]

Could you flip and rotate the blank and finish the cut from the opposite side?

If I flip and rotate the blank, it won't line up exactly with the previous cut and then the inlay will be off

The reason I want to make a 3" rolling pin is that I am making a standard pin that rolls while the user holds the handles on each end.

I do have a miter saw.  My concern is the angle I would have to have the blank at on the table could be dangerous.  I will re-examine it and see if there is some sort of jig I can fashion to hold it in place.

I can't use a 12" blade because I have a Saw-Stop cabinet saw which uses a braking cartridge that contours the outside radius of the blade.

I might also cut the blank outline from the existing sled and then use the sled with the blank riding on the tabletop

[daddo]

How good are you with a bandsaw?