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11-25-2019, 12:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-25-2019, 12:04 PM by shoottmx.
Edit Reason: language
)
Big Dave,
darn!
g
Edit,
I didn't type "darn". The software changed it. i guess you have to imagine my actual word.
I've only had one...in dog beers.
"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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Thanks, guys!
Sorry, Doug. I didn't mean to hijack your post with the pics...
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
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11-25-2019, 11:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-25-2019, 11:12 PM by Tapper.)
(11-25-2019, 10:41 PM)Big Dave Wrote: Thanks, guys!
Sorry, Doug. I didn't mean to hijack your post with the pics...
No apologies necessary, Dave - on the contrary, I think you provided some inspiration!
Thanks,
Doug
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(11-19-2019, 11:26 AM)Tapper Wrote: Thanks to all who have responded thus far - some good ideas. As a separate question, do you install the slides after the boxes are assembled or do you install them on each standard (side panel) before assembly?
Thanks,
Doug
I install the slides first. After the drawer box is in I predrill 4 holes for the drawer front into the false front face. With shallow drawers where a drill won't fit I counter sink the holes by installing a countersink drill from the inside and chucking the machine drill from outside the drawer. Run the drill in reverse as you countersink the holes. If you run it in forward the countersink won't cut, turns the wrong way.
You can eliminate this by using pan head screws if you want.
I use hot hide glue in a few spots and hold the face panel til the glue cools, about a minute or two. Then the 4 screws are turned in from inside the box. With shallow drawers I use a Yankee screw driver to drive the screws. You youngsters may have to do a search to see what they look like.
I used to have a countersink that fit my Yankee, lost or misplaced it. Comes in handy for the 4 screws I mentioned above.
Before battery operated drills , every trim carpenter had at least one of these.
mike
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After the first couple of carcasses, I decided to make a story board. Just used a piece of scrap plywood, stood it up in one of the carcasses and marked off the locations of the struts. This gave me a starting point. From there I drew in the box heights (based on the Incra jig requirements), clearances, etc.
I also made these two right angle jigs to use for clamping the carcasses together. Tried to get them as close to dead square as possible, realizing how important squareness is to this project.
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12-08-2019, 02:38 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-09-2019, 01:28 PM by Tapper.)
(12-08-2019, 02:14 PM)Tapper Wrote: After the first couple of carcasses, I decided to make a story board. Just used a piece of scrap plywood, stood it up in one of the carcasses and marked off the locations of the struts. This gave me a starting point. From there I drew in the box heights (based on the Incra jig requirements), clearances, etc.
I also made these two right angle jigs to use for clamping the carcasses together. Tried to get them as close to dead square as possible, realizing how important squareness is to this project.
Made these spacers to align the biscuits for the individual struts.
Typical glue-up with clamping in the right angle jigs. After the panels were laid out, and the biscuit slots cut, I predrilled and countersunk all the spots where I wanted to apply pressure with screws (used 1 5/8" drywall screws). After initial clamping and alignment, I used the screws as the primary clamping device. Sped up the process somewhat.
When all the carcasses were built, I made spacers to install the slides, based on the dimensions on the story board. This is one of the two larger cabinets that will have only two drawers each.
Before installing the 1/4" plywood backs into previously cut dado slots in the sides and then stapling them in place, I checked for square across the diagonals of the back of each cabinet. Fortunately, pretty close on most of them. This becomes important when you begin to install them permanently in place on the platform and against the back wall.
My "trusty" Harbor Freight hydraulic lift came in pretty handy when moving these cabinet carcasses around. With the slides installed, they are pretty heavy and a little unwieldy, to say the least! I found myself moving them from the platform back to the bench for various reasons, adjustments, etc.
Carcasses, with slides installed, sitting in place on the platform.
Next step is to level, square, shim and permanently install all the cabinets. They will be screwed to each other, down to the platform and to the back wall. After that, begin building the 24 drawers of 4 different sizes.
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Pretty good progress, Doug! Lookin' good!
Shop projects are sometimes the most fulfilling...
Dave
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
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(12-08-2019, 11:13 PM)Big Dave Wrote: Pretty good progress, Doug! Lookin' good!
Shop projects are sometimes the most fulfilling...
Dave
Thanks Dave - this one is way overdue!
Doug
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