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I am making some 6 sided shelves for my daughter and set the degree at 60 and they did not meet up so well. I thought 60* since my tablesaw would not go to 30*. how would you cut the wood???
I first tried to get it at 30* and would not tilt so did 60* which I know 30* is correct for segmented turning.
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I'd like to help, but I don't understand the problem exactly. I don't know what a six sided shelf is.
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(12-16-2019, 06:29 PM)MidwestMan Wrote: I'd like to help, but I don't understand the problem exactly. I don't know what a six sided shelf is.
See the link here
https://www.forums.woodnet.net/showthrea...id=7351844
and scroll down the page. I believe it is called a Hexagon shape
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
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(12-17-2019, 12:26 AM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: See the link here
https://www.forums.woodnet.net/showthrea...id=7351844
and scroll down the page. I believe it is called a Hexagon shape Ah! Hexagonal shadow box. Interior angles 120 saw 60 sounds right.
https://www.ehow.com/how_5484197_cut-hex...e-saw.html
Or chop saw
https://www.hunker.com/12529168/how-to-c...r-hexagons
Or go crazy
http://dls-website.com/documents/Woodwor..._Notes.pdf
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(12-15-2019, 03:01 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: I am making some 6 sided shelves for my daughter and set the degree at 60 and they did not meet up so well. I thought 60* since my tablesaw would not go to 30*. how would you cut the wood???
I first tried to get it at 30* and would not tilt so did 60* which I know 30* is correct for segmented turning.
miter saw works for me
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Do not have a chop saw. Maybe I can make a sled for this.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
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12-17-2019, 04:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-17-2019, 04:46 PM by MidwestMan.
Edit Reason: Even more clarity
)
Okay, I read ALL the posts. Seems to me, you are over thinking this. Regularly, you use the table saw for a straight cut. Which is 90 degrees to the board. Okay, that's good. If you were to make a simple square box (with mitered corners), you would cut your boards at 45 degrees, which any table saw can do. If you were to crank your blade to do a 45 degree cut, you would pass by the 30 degree mark, on your way to 45. Just stop at the 30 degree mark, to make this project you want. Of course, the table saw gauge is rarely accurate. So, use some fancy dancy computer thingy, to get it accurate.
ETA: 30 DEGREES x 12 cuts = 360 degrees (each end of each board, gets cut to 30 degrees)
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(12-17-2019, 04:40 PM)MidwestMan Wrote: Okay, I read ALL the posts. Seems to me, you are over thinking this. Regularly, you use the table saw for a straight cut. Which is 90 degrees to the board. Okay, that's good. If you were to make a simple square box (with mitered corners), you would cut your boards at 45 degrees, which any table saw can do. If you were to crank your blade to do a 45 degree cut, you would pass by the 30 degree mark, on your way to 45. Just stop at the 30 degree mark, to make this project you want. Of course, the table saw gauge is rarely accurate. So, use some fancy dancy computer thingy, to get it accurate.
ETA: 30 DEGREES x 12 cuts = 360 degrees (each end of each board, gets cut to 30 degrees)
I do not see the blade as going past 45*?? If it is 90* you have to go down to 50*, 40*, and then 30* so you have to pass 45* before getting to 30.
I am thinking since 30* and 150* are the same maybe I can try it that way.
Tonight I adjusted the angle of the miter to 30* but with 4" wide board it will not cut all the way thru and leaves about 1/2" left at the top.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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12-17-2019, 07:29 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-17-2019, 07:45 PM by MidwestMan.)
(12-17-2019, 07:16 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote:
I do not see the blade as going past 45*?? If it is 90* you have to go down to 50*, 40*, and then 30* so you have to pass 45* before getting to 30.
I am thinking since 30* and 150* are the same maybe I can try it that way.
Tonight I adjusted the angle of the miter to 30* but with 4" wide board it will not cut all the way thru and leaves about 1/2" left at the top.
No Arlin. Starting with the saw blade straight up, as you start tilting the blade, it goes from 0 degrees to 45 degrees (or more, depending on the table saw). So, on the way to 45 degrees stop at 30 degrees.
ETA: YES, THE BLADE STRAIGHT UP IS 0 DEGREES on most table saws calibration gauges I've seen.
ETA: Adding a picture to help.
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If for some reason, you don't believe me when I say straight up is 0 degrees, then stop and think about what it is you want to accomplish. You want a 30 degree cut on the end of the board. Take a gauge and mark the side of the board at 30 degrees. You will see, it matches the angle I posted above (the middle figure of course).
Now go to your table saw, and start the process of tilting your blade, it will start at 0 degrees and as you crank the tilting blade will go to 1 degree and then 2 degrees and so on... go to 30 degrees. Use whatever electronic gadget you have, or use whatever to accurately measure the angle.
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