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Location: RTP, NC
(12-18-2019, 07:43 AM)MichaelMouse Wrote: Best advice as above, cut absolutely at the top of the turning when planing, so that pesky point will never find wood. and let your angle determine the thickness of the shaving and the slope of the cut. If you can find a straight chisel, so much the better, because you can bead just fine with the same tool. Coves, well bad design once again, unless you own forged patterns, but you may find yourself forced to use other than the point of a cylindrical gouge to make a smooth roll in, slice down, roll in opposite. Use what we've got.
Thanks. That is obvious when you say it. I have been trying to plane along the side, or at least part way down.
I have a straight chisel. It was a not very good scraper that I reground a while back, albeit not well. I'll work on cleaning up the edge and experiment with it.
Posts: 36,547
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Location: RTP, NC
One more question - is a longer bevel easier to use and learn than a shorter one? I’m asking because most of the skews I. The videos I am watching have shorter steeper bevels than my skew
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(12-19-2019, 11:46 AM)crokett™ Wrote: One more question - is a longer bevel easier to use and learn than a shorter one? I’m asking because most of the skews I. The videos I am watching have shorter steeper bevels than my skew
Shorter bevels = steeper angles to make it dive if you increase the angle between the tool and the piece. Might even, if you want close beads, force you to make them shallow, due to clearance problems. I have a reground single bevel straight tool made from one of those scrapers they put in every beginner set which takes care of that for me. Not quite a Bedan, but I'm cheap on tools now, having purchased too many trendy patterns and metals through the years.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
