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I have some melamine shelves I would like to attach to the double track brackets. On the narrow end of the bracket a 1-1.25" screw will work. On the back end of the bracket a 2.25" screw looks to be ideal. A 2.5" screw will leave a bulge at the tip of the screw if it doesn't come through. A 2" screw just doesn't seem like it would have enough into the chipboard to really hold. I could put a couple washers under the head of the 2.5" but that leaves the head hanging down waiting to scratch the back of your hand. I have not found 2.25" screws locally so I will need to order them if that is the route I need to go. Before I go and spend as much in shipping as I will for the actual screws does anyone have a better idea?
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Where in the world are you located? It may help us in suggesting a local supplier. Also, what finish are you looking for and a quantity.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
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I am in western NY. Finish is irrelevant for this project they are just some shelves in a closet. I need 8 screws.
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A 2” screw will be fine. The screw is just to keep the shelf from sliding. The majority of the vectors of force should be going down.
If you are worried about putting enough torque on the front tip of the shelf to lift the back, you can do 2.5” flathead machine screws from the top. Countersink so they are flush. Hard to imagine that much torque on a properly sized shelf and bracket, though.
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(12-27-2019, 05:33 PM)CEPenworks Wrote: I have some melamine shelves I would like to attach to the double track brackets. On the narrow end of the bracket a 1-1.25" screw will work. On the back end of the bracket a 2.25" screw looks to be ideal. A 2.5" screw will leave a bulge at the tip of the screw if it doesn't come through. A 2" screw just doesn't seem like it would have enough into the chipboard to really hold. I could put a couple washers under the head of the 2.5" but that leaves the head hanging down waiting to scratch the back of your hand. I have not found 2.25" screws locally so I will need to order them if that is the route I need to go. Before I go and spend as much in shipping as I will for the actual screws does anyone have a better idea?
sometimes angling the screw works if it is just a tiny bit too long...you may be able to trim/grind/file the point to shorten as long as you have a proper pilot hole...
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Do you have a Home Depot nearby?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-8-x.../204587409
2 packs and you are good to go.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
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Or drill a pilot hole and grind off the tip of the screw. As long as the pilot hole allows the screw to bite it will work fine.
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(12-27-2019, 05:33 PM)CEPenworks Wrote: I have some melamine shelves I would like to attach to the double track brackets. On the narrow end of the bracket a 1-1.25" screw will work. On the back end of the bracket a 2.25" screw looks to be ideal. A 2.5" screw will leave a bulge at the tip of the screw if it doesn't come through. A 2" screw just doesn't seem like it would have enough into the chipboard to really hold. I could put a couple washers under the head of the 2.5" but that leaves the head hanging down waiting to scratch the back of your hand. I have not found 2.25" screws locally so I will need to order them if that is the route I need to go. Before I go and spend as much in shipping as I will for the actual screws does anyone have a better idea?
I'm having a hard time with the idea that rear screws are even necessary. Or front ones for that matter, unless it's only to keep the shelf from sliding around right to left.
