I can't cope

[KC]

I can't do it with a coping saw, can't do it with a grinder, and probably can't do it with files, altho I haven't tried that yet.  I've watched probably 12 different YouTube videos that make it look relatively simple.  And still I fail.  
  I expect patience has something to do with it. 


Hats off to you guys and gals that can do it.

[R Clark]

I can't do it with a coping saw, can't do it with a grinder, and probably can't do it with files, altho I haven't tried that yet.  I've watched probably 12 different YouTube videos that make it look relatively simple.  And still I fail.  
  I expect patience has something to do with it. 


Hats off to you guys and gals that can do it.

You're not alone in that boat.  It's one of the reasons I hate trim carpentry.

[barnowl]

[barnowl]

https://youtu.be/OrVBbDYTm5U?t=184

[brofessor]

I like to cope backwards, cutting on the push not the pull. And a good maybe 9" half round rasp to clean up the cut to the line. And lately in the last 4-5 months I like using a fret saw over a coping saw, but either will work, it's the rasp that makes the cope look good imo

[APZ]

I like to cope backwards, cutting on the push not the pull. And a good maybe 9" half round rasp to clean up the cut to the line. And lately in the last 4-5 months I like using a fret saw over a coping saw, but either will work, it's the rasp that makes the cope look good imo

I get close with the coping saw and clean it up with various rasps and files.

[mike4244]

I can't do it with a coping saw, can't do it with a grinder, and probably can't do it with files, altho I haven't tried that yet.  I've watched probably 12 different YouTube videos that make it look relatively simple.  And still I fail.  
  I expect patience has something to do with it. 


Hats off to you guys and gals that can do it.

You can cope!  Small trim like shoe molding is easily coped with a coping saw, sandpaper on a dowel or even a large drill bit. Round files or rasps too will work. Larger trim ,crown molding etc. you can cope with a saber saw. 14 TPI wood or metal blade in the saw. The base of the saw stays at 90°. Trim is sawn at 45° exactly same as if it is an inside miter. The base of the saw lays flat on the miter face you just sawed. Cut relief where the blade turns sharply. If it is crown molding or similar that has ogees and flats ,then saw relief at the flat without cutting thru the face.
Some times a pencil line on the sharp edge of the miter helps to see where to cut. When the base of the saw sits flat on the cut it automatically gives you a 45° back cut relief. Take your time and start your cut. When done sawing, define the edge with hand tools and 80 grit sandpaper.
When the coped edge looks sharp ,test the cope with a scrap. 
If crown molding is the coped piece then the flats have to be paper thin . Otherwise the crown cannot push up to match the existing crown.
Make various sanding sticks from paint stirrers , round stock like broom stick or dowels. 80 grit sandpaper is good for shaping, only grit needed.
I have coped crown with a saber saw for many years. Never tried a grinder or any store bought jigs.
If you cope crown as much as I have you can do it in under 3 minutes. Take your time , expect a few errors at first. Might take 8 hrs to get the first one right. Keep practicing on scrap until you can repeat the cope several times.

mike

[Snipe Hunter]

After a while, it's easy. Sharp saw, bevel gauge, dark sharp pencil.

One thing that makes coping hard is that people assume the mating trim board is square to the wall, floor etc. It ususlly isn't. Use the bevel gauge to measure the angle of the installed mating piece. Cut the end of the piece to be coped by transferring that angle from the installed piece to the piece to be copied. Set your miter saw to that angle. Cut the end of the piece to the correct angle. Then trace a scrap of molding on that newly cut edge. Use the coping saw to cut off at that line. There should be no pencil line left if cut right. I keep a couple pieces of scrap already coped to left and right profiles to help trace the pencil line accurately. Always cut on the push stroke to avoid tear out on the finished face.

I also use sand paper to touch it up. Sanding block for clean sanding cuts. Dowels make good sanding blocks for inside curves and flat blocks for outside curves. I rarely use a file unless I need to insure a real sharp inside corner.

[KC]

Imma try again in a bit.  I've seen both those videos, and just like before, they make it look simple. Of course I can do it!  And then I go outside...  
 

I'll post an update... good or bad.  

[Snipe Hunter]

Go slowly, sharp coping saw. For me, the key was to make sure my line was scribed right to tga adjoining piece. A little trial and error. Also, with the outside corners, make sure you get an accurate measurement of the corner angle. No such thing as a 90 degree corner of a wall. At least in my house.