Help! I HATE painting!

[plharrison]

I love making stuff, but I my least favorite thing is finishing my work. Putting poly over walnut for example is fine, and easy. But I do hate painting. My wife ordered a new table to go between two recliners we have, and wanted it painted with a light beige color to match the kitchen cabinets. It's made from poplar. So I'm finishing up here in a couple of days and will have to move on to painting. My question is, given it will take some wear and tear, I assume poly over the paint would be best? The top is only 16" x 18" so a pretty small table. Which is easier, spray straight from a can or brush? I'd like somewhat of a semi gloss / glossy look.
Any advice appreciated!
Paul

[jteneyck]

SW's WB primer and  ProClassic paint will give a very nice finish.  Same for BM's Advance paint.  Both go on great with a brush or foam roller if you add a couple % each of water and BM's Extender.  Both are very durable after curing for a couple of weeks, so I wouldn't topcoat either with anything more.  

If you would rather use a clear topcoat, I would start with GF's Milk Paint for your base color and then topcoat it with GF's High Performance.  Both can be applied with a brush.  

John

[Phil Thien]

For a painted table that might have wet things placed on it, a glass topper can be a lifesaver.

[R Clark]

I have used poly on top of an off-white paint, and it gave an amber cast to the color.  If you choose to do poly on top of paint, suggest testing a sample first so that you will have an idea of the final look.

Edited to add: I agree with John about the possibility of milk paint. I have done a few pieces in milk paint, top-coated with rattle-can lacquer. I liked the results. I haven't used a prepared milk paint before, I've only used the powder base that was mixed with water at the time of use.

[MsNomer]

Use a foam brush.

[plharrison]

Thanks guys. I've never used milk paint before and don't know what it looks like after, but I'm going to check it out.
Paul

[jteneyck]

Thanks guys. I've never used milk paint before and don't know what it looks like after, but I'm going to check it out.
Paul

GF's Milk Paint is really a WB acrylic.  It dries flat, so maybe that's why they call it milk paint; I don't know but it's nothing like genuine milk paint.  It goes on great with a foam brush.  You definitely will want to topcoat it as it's easily scratched.  I did the black on this cabinet with GF's Milk Paint + High Performance Poly.  I applied the milk paint with a foam brush, then sprayed the HP Poly.  




John

[plharrison]

GF's Milk Paint is really a WB acrylic.  It dries flat, so maybe that's why they call it milk paint; I don't know but it's nothing like genuine milk paint.  It goes on great with a foam brush.  You definitely will want to topcoat it as it's easily scratched.  I did the black on this cabinet with GF's Milk Paint + High Performance Poly.  I applied the milk paint with a foam brush, then sprayed the HP Poly.  




John

Nice!!

[fptahoe]

At his recommendation, I have used John's suggestion of GF's Milk Paint for base color and then topcoat with GF's High Performance for some bedroom furniture and it turned out great.  I sprayed both paint and finish on but have brushed both products on and that looks great, too.  I would allow time to cure - I would say at least a week before use.  I found out the hard way that the dry finish is still quite delicate until it cures for a few days. 

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

My best paint finish on a furniture project made from hard maple included 2 coats BIN shellac primer, 2 coats BM Advance, and top coated with GF’s High Performance. Light sanding inbetween each topcoat with lighter grit as I progressed. I do think top coating with a clear gives a bit more silky smoothness overall. Maybe my imagination and more likely attributed to aiming for my best finish I was capable of doing. Strangely, my finishing can often mimic how much I really care about whatever project I’m finishing.