Veneer tape residue removal

[CEPenworks]

I love doing veneer projects because you can get such dramatic results. What I don't like is trying to remove the tape residue. I used three hole tape that you wet to apply. I moistened it to remove and have the paper off but the glue residue still remains. I have tried sanding in the past but that still never totally gets rid of it. I have also tried a damp cloth with little luck. Anyone got a good way to remove the tape glue residue? This is on a shaved claro walnut burl so I can't do excessive sanding.

[Stwood_]

My tape was always on the bottom side and didn't show.

[barryvabeach]

Have you tried a card scraper?  I have tried that a few times and it worked for me, though I am not good at veneering, and have never veneered with a burl.

[jteneyck]

I've had the same problem occasionally.  It's more noticeable on lighter colored woods, but I've had it happen even on walnut.  I've only found two solutions, sand until it's gone or don't use it.  Sanding works for me because I use 1/16" or thicker shop sawn veneer, but it's not a solution for the sliced commercial stuff.  For that stuff about the only thing that has worked for me is to not use it.  Instead, I use 3M's blue tape.  Works fine if the seams fit well.    

Stwood, veneer tape goes on the top, not the bottom.  If you put it on the bottom there won't be any glue between the tape and the veneer and it can bulge and even debond in those areas over time, especially if you ran a piece of tape the length of the seam.

[mike4244]

I love doing veneer projects because you can get such dramatic results. What I don't like is trying to remove the tape residue. I used three hole tape that you wet to apply. I moistened it to remove and have the paper off but the glue residue still remains. I have tried sanding in the past but that still never totally gets rid of it. I have also tried a damp cloth with little luck. Anyone got a good way to remove the tape glue residue? This is on a shaved claro walnut burl so I can't do excessive sanding.

I haven't done much veneering lately that had seams. I recall the same gooey problems you have. I removed the goo with a small amount of solvent which I think was alcohol. Tape a scrap seam ,then try different solvents til one works . Start with alcohol, acetone, then lacquer thinner etc. 
Sanding may make it worse, card scraper will work if the veneer is not to thin.
mike

[SteveS]

I've tried using a damp sponge and wipe it off and usually end up sanding. It's risky using water since it could expand and shrink and leave a gap. Alcohol sounds like a potentially good solution since it has less water in solution.

[CEPenworks]

In all my searching of veneering techniques I recently did come across one reference that says to use the tape on the underside. The caveat is that it is 3 hole tape and only done on the unseen side. I have tried several different tapes over the years and the only difference I have found between something like painter's tape and the wetted tape with holes is the remaining glue mark is either solid or has dots in it where the holes were. I also saw a reference to using IPA to remove the glue. No not the beer the alcohol. I had some 70% IPA at home and that didn't seem to work. I will grab some 100% from work to see if it will work better. I will also give the card scraper a try. The good thing is this piece is unlikely to be viewed under raking light. Thanks for the help.

[mound]

I love doing veneer projects because you can get such dramatic results. What I don't like is trying to remove the tape residue. I used three hole tape that you wet to apply. I moistened it to remove and have the paper off but the glue residue still remains. I have tried sanding in the past but that still never totally gets rid of it. I have also tried a damp cloth with little luck. Anyone got a good way to remove the tape glue residue? This is on a shaved claro walnut burl so I can't do excessive sanding.

I'm in the midst of a big veneering project right now.
I always just use blue tape.. Edge joint the pieces, pull them together tight across the joint with small pieces of blue tape spaced down the length and then one long piece down the seam (on the outside show face).. flip it over, then I have neat little channels to lay the glue into, fold the seam shut, another piece of blue tape on the bottom side, let dry.. Peels right up, perfect results.. any glue residue is easily sanded off later.

Doesn't really answer your question though.. I used to use the fancy 3-hole veneer tape and had the same issues, and found a card scraper did the trick.

caveat: I almost always use 1/16" veneers

[SteveS]

I've used this tape at least once. It seems to have a little less tack than blue tape. I'm usually hesitant to use adhesive tape since there is the risk of it tearing up weak surface fibers.

[Rob Young]

Limited veneering but I've found that the gummed veneer tape without the holes worked better for me. Damp sponge, some patience, a razor blade to scrape followed by card scraper and finally p180 or higher sandpaper. No serious issues with burly stuff.

Might also be something to do with the use of hot hide glue which gets slathered a bit on both sides during the hammering process. Perhaps that extra bit of heat and moisture helped with the release. Certainly stiffens the veneer fibers.

Also experimented with the blue tape method as described above and it works fine too. Only problem I had (and it is common from what I've read) is using the blue tape inside vacuum bags. Tends to get smashed down into the fibers and thus pulls more out.