Kerfing Chisel

[wmickley]

Did you watch the video?

Doug

Yes, I watched the video. In the video it took over five minutes to extend the six kerfs. It takes less time than that to cut out the corners of the socket using chisels with no sawing, no kerfs at all. And traditional methods are even faster.

[Derek Cohen]

In this case, Warren, accuracy and ease of clearing waste trumps ultimate speed. After all, we are not as proficient as you. And we have 5 minutes to spare.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[tablesawtom]

Derek,

Thank you for taking the time to make the video. That is some nice work, and some very nice work all around as far as the table goes. I even recognize some of my work in it also. The springs around the threaded shafts seem to be working out very nicely. I love the clamp on the moxon it sure keeps things from moving during marking. It kind of takes the whole package to to get the dovetail to come out like that, not including a lot and I mean a lot of cutting dovetails. 
Now you have me thinking about making a kerfing chisel.

Anyway thanks again.

Tom

[TheCabinetmaker]

It's fascinating to me to see the different ways that woodworkers solve the same problem. A while back I made a diminutive gents saw that I use for small DT's . After that I took a piece of the leftover 1095 and made a kerf cutter. It takes about 5 seconds to wack it down with my mallet.

   

   

[Derek Cohen]

The speed of kerfing (new word?) depends on how wide/deep you go, and this is itself linked to the wood - soft and straight-grained woods are safest, while hard, brittle and interlocked woods require careful work (small bites, and a clamp).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[wmickley]

The speed of kerfing (new word?) depends on how wide/deep you go, and this is itself linked to the wood - soft and straight-grained woods are safest, while hard, brittle and interlocked woods require careful work (small bites, and a clamp).

Regards from Perth

Derek

  And the fellow also wasn't doing a lipped drawer, so he could do almost double the sawing before crushing.

[Derek Cohen]

  And the fellow also wasn't doing a lipped drawer, so he could do almost double the sawing before crushing.

Exactly Warren. Great to see you getting with the program


Regards from Perth

Derek

[adamcherubini]

I’ll just say it here, tho I think most of you already know this. In 18th c urban centers in American and London at least, craftsmen over cut the baseline to saw these corners out. If you open a drawer, invariably you will see saw cuts on the back of the drawer fronts.

I do it this way. Usually you only need 1/2 to 3/4” to get most of that meat out.

And this isn’t the only joint that got over cut on a consistent basis. Sliding dts in the fronts of carcasses are also typically over sawn.

I guess my view is that this was a real enough annoyance that our ancestors did something special to mitigate it. Tage Frid hammered in a scraper. Kerfing chisel seems like an ok solution to me if extending the saw cuts offends ones sensibilities.

Derek I enjoyed watching your video!

[RonB1957]

I’ll just say it here, tho I think most of you already know this. In 18th c urban centers in American and London at least, craftsmen over cut the baseline to saw these corners out. If you open a drawer, invariably you will see saw cuts on the back of the drawer fronts.

I do it this way. Usually you only need 1/2 to 3/4” to get most of that meat out.

And this isn’t the only joint that got over cut on a consistent basis. Sliding dts in the fronts of carcasses are also typically over sawn.

I guess my view is that this was a real enough annoyance that our ancestors did something special to mitigate it. Tage Frid hammered in a scraper. Kerfing chisel seems like an ok solution to me if extending the saw cuts offends ones sensibilities.

Derek I enjoyed watching your video!

Chuck Bender over cuts them as well. Speed was/ is an issue for production.
 If I were cutting them every day, I would probably do the same. But it offends my eyes knowing those lines are there.

  Hence I prefer the kerfing tools. whichever one you choose. Hobbyist need not worry so much about time constraints. It is just a question of how true to the 18th Century methods you wish to be.

[wmickley]

Chuck Bender over cuts them as well. Speed was/ is an issue for production.
 If I were cutting them every day, I would probably do the same. But it offends my eyes knowing those lines are there.

  Hence I prefer the kerfing tools. whichever one you choose. Hobbyist need not worry so much about time constraints. It is just a question of how true to the 18th Century methods you wish to be.

 Can you tell whether the pins are over cut or not?