Tapcon question

[fredhargis]

This thing, explained down the page.

Huh?

Sorry, didn't include the linky.

[Scouter]

Sorry, didn't include the linky.

Ah, okay, didn't see them at any of the locals.

[Scouter]

The hammer drill will work, just not as well as the impact.

Depends on how many tapcons you need to use. I had to hang mortar mesh for cultured stone on a 8' x 20' wall once. Corded hammer drill and cordless impact made it easier. This was before li-on batteries, the cordless hammer drill didn't hold up well.

Ed

Had to get a 5/16" impact driver, but it worked, and smoothly as well. Thanks everyone...now back to work.

[mike4244]

I'm trying to install post bases into a concrete porch. As per instructions I drilled a 3/16" hole for a 1/4" Tapcon, when I went to screw it in, using a 5/16" socket on a hand ratchet, the screw went in about 1" then snapped. I called Tapcon to get advice, the woman suggested a hammer drill. That seemed odd, I would have guessed an impact driver.

Anyone have any idea why it would snap with a hand installation?

Is a hammer drill right, or should it be an impact driver?

How do you install these things?

The correct tool is a rotary hammer to drill the hole. I use the  Bosch Bulldog . Did you drill deeper than the Tapcon length ? Did you blow out the dust from the bottom of the hole ?  Also another reason the screw broke off could be the bit you are using. It may have been a 3/16" bit when new but after repeat drilling the carbide wears down in diameter. This makes the hole smaller than intended.
I do not use Tapcons anymore, but when I did I did not screw them in as suggested. I hammer them in and they hold as well without breaking off. 
I use the same 3/16" bit, drill the hole at least 4" deep. Then place a 4" or longer piece of tie wire used for rebar into the hole. Drive a 16d galvanized nail along side the wire and into the hole. This method is inexpensive and works better than Tapcons. 
I won a bet once with my boss over this method. I nailed a wood plate to a concrete floor. My boss said the nails would pop out, I asked him to pull the plate up with a 4'-0 stripping bar. He pulled the plate up , the 2x4 came up but the nails stayed.
He bought lunch for a week, made a believer out of him.
mike

[Turner52]

Have used the wire trick for years. You are correct about the hold. We only did it for fastening temporary bracing and used duplex nails so we could remove them. My only concern with permanent is if there was water getting in the hole the wire might rust and deteriorate. Don't know if that is correct or not

[messmaker]

Might try a bit of grease,wax or soap on the tapcon. It will help some.

[Scouter]

After talking with the people at Tapcon the reason they gave is that the screw was too long and just experienced too much torque. Their recommend is 1" - 1-1/4" longer than the material you are trying to fasten, so that only about 1" of the screw goes into the concrete. The other suggestion was using the hammer drill to set the screw. I did this and everything is perfect.

Also, since I had to buy new screws I went to the big L box and got what they carry, something called Power something or other. They seem heavier duty than Tapcon's. Used them to attach a digital antenna to the chimney (we're cutting the cord this summer), and that worked well going into the brick.

[MstrCarpenter]

For a long time now, Tapcon screws have been on the list of items I consider absolutely (deleted) useless. When I did a job involving rabbeted insul. bd. and 1x3 strapping on old cinder block walls that would have required literally thousands of Tapcons, I quickly determined that they work as they're supposed to just often enough that you'll keep trying. I tried water, soapy water, bar soap, bees wax, WD-40, with many different brands of masonry bits. Even with frequent prayers they continued to either snap or strip. When a wood screw won't bite in its hole we add a sliver of wood. Well I didn't have a sliver of concrete but I did spot some plastic coffee stirrers. I found that with one or two I could at least salvage the hole. It wasn't a great leap to discover that zip ties work better; but it was a game changer when I realized that ceramic coated deck screws with a zip tie not only held better than Tapcons, they worked every time. I think the only "trick" I can offer is to not hesitate when running the screw in. The speed and friction softens/melts the plastic and it will wrap around the screw and conform to the hole.

Now the important part. I have freely offered on Woodnet what I have learned over the years; but this was a lesson I paid dearly for. Please keep this in your own "bag of tricks" and refrain from reposting this knowledge on other sites. There are many professionals that keep their trade secrets secrete, I'm not one of them. I just don't want to see some young You-tuber taking credit and making money from information I share with my friends here on Woodnet. Thank-you