Reviving my Father's table saw

[pgriff]

Since I have spare time right now, I am in the process of reviving my father's Craftsman 103.22160 table saw. I also have a spare parts saw that I picked up for $25. I am planning on cleaning it up but keeping the paint & patina as is since that is what it would look like if my father were still alive & using it. I am thinking of bolting the 2 table tops together for a wider top. I am left handed so I planning on bolting it on the left side of the saw blade, since that is the side I prefer to work on with my RAS. I have never used a table saw, so am not sure if this is the best way to go. I will be posting some pictures of my progress soon.

[GeeDub]

The 103. indicates a King Seeley manufacture. This may help you with a documentation search or parts list diagrams. Normally one wing goes on each side but, you can certainly do as you describe. I generally use the miter gauge to the left of the blade and the rip fence to the right.

[jteneyck]

I have two functioning table saws bolted together with one 52" rip fence bolted across the front.  I love the big deck that gives me to support large panels.  Even if one of your saws isn't functional the added support would be great as long as you have the room.  

John

[TDKPE]

Since I have spare time right now, I am in the process of reviving my father's Craftsman 103.22160 table saw. I also have a spare parts saw that I picked up for $25. I am planning on cleaning it up but keeping the paint & patina as is since that is what it would look like if my father were still alive & using it. I am thinking of bolting the 2 table tops together for a wider top. I am left handed so I planning on bolting it on the left side of the saw blade, since that is the side I prefer to work on with my RAS.

My late father had that same saw, with 3/4 hp original motor.  I remember him using it way back when I was 4 years old or younger, as it was at our first house (moved when I was 4).  He got hold of a couple of extensions in later years, and bolted them both to the left side.  He too was a lefty.  

8" blade, and he used the original he got in the 1950's - an 8- or 10-tooth "safety blade".  It's probably still in the saw, in my mother's basement.

[pgriff]

Thanks for the comments. I have downloaded a copy of the saw manual from OWWM. I plan on making a zero clearance insert and get both the miter gauge and original fence in good operating condition. The spare parts saw also had an original craftsman dado saw blade set in it. I will clean it up and see what it looks like. Still had the paper shims between the blades. Any suggestions for a blade for this saw?
This saw came with a 1/2 hp, 1750 rpm saw. Is this OK?

[TDKPE]

This saw came with a 1/2 hp, 1750 rpm saw. Is this OK?

Horsepower is horsepower, so motor speed doesn't matter* as long as the motor sheave is about 2-1/2 times as large as the arbor sheave, giving you the listed 4500 rpm arbor speed.  

But where you might have a problem is in belt clearance to the underside of the table with the blade at full height.  The catalogue lists 3600 rpm motors in either 1/2 hp, or 3/4 hp for $7 more. 
  But that means the motor sheave for those motors was half the size, giving more belt clearance.

But for what that saw can do, 1/2 hp should be fine.  Just use the right blade for the job (rip vs cross-cut vs plywood), keep it sharp, and don't push it too hard.

*the 1800 rpm motor will output twice the torque as the 3600 rpm motor of the same hp.

[stav]

That saw is from when tools still had some style.  Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

[p_leyden]

Since I have spare time right now, I am in the process of re refurbished viving my father's Craftsman 103.22160 table saw. I also have a spare parts saw that I picked up for $25. I am planning on cleaning it up but keeping the paint & patina as is since that is what it would look like if my father were still alive & using it. I  and even with the am thinking of bolting the 2 table tops together for a wider top. I am left handed so I planning on bolting it on the left side of the saw blade, since that is the side I prefer to work on with my RAS. I have never used a table saw, so am not sure if this is the best way to go. I will be posting some pictures of my progress soon.

I have refurbished several  of the 22060 table saws, and still have one that was in the process of being refurbished ( also a band saw) when I found the arbor assembly in need of replacement.The arbor is a unit bearing type(the bearings are an integral part of the arbor assembly) The part is no longer available from Sears, or from any other source, as far as I know.
   I have tried to figure out possibly 1. replacing the bearings with individual discrete bearings, or 2. Drilling a hole between the integral bearings and pumping grease into the arbor assembly. Got nowhere with #1, and #2 even, with fresh grease the bearings were still noisy(shot!)
   Unfortunately for us rebuilder and refurbishers there was. a period where unit bearings were popular with some tool manufacturers  but no longer. If the bearings are good on your father's saw, or you are able to find a replacement you are truly fortunate.
Good luck,
Pete Leyden
PS If you want to chat about this, call me at - 631-226-8754

[pgriff]

Any suggestions for a saw blade? All I have is a collection of old blades from the 70's. The original blade was an 8" blade with a 1/2" arbor hole.

[p_leyden]

8"saw blades with 1/2" bores are hard to find. Most saw blades today have 5/8" bores. I have 5/8" to 1/2" bushings available which will let you use blades with 5/8 bores on your saw with a 1/2" spindle. BTW, you can also use 7 1/4" blades with a small decrease in depth of cut.
Let me know if you can use some of these bushings (free).
Good luck with your rebuild!
Pete Leyden