Posts: 706
Threads: 37
Joined: May 2000
Location: Southeast, Florida
Hello All,
I am refinishing a coffee table which was taken from a boat. I am fairly sure the wood is teak - please click on the links. I applied some water in one of the pictures to give you an idea of what the Teak looks like when it is finished with a clear coat. I have sanded off all of the old finish which was basically worn away for the most part. I used 80, 150 and 220 grit sandpaper. I want to use a clear coat without any pigment. I have some MinWax Spar Urethane which is leftover from previous products that I could use. The coffee table will be kept inside with no exposure to the sun. I know there are Teak Oils and other products that I could use.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/cfH...i7V1Zi6wnb
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/wbP...la-amAt4ME
My wife prefers the raw color of Teak vs Teak with some type of clear coat which brings out its natural color. I do not want to stain the Teak so I told her she would have to accept the Teak as it appears with a clear coat or basically what she sees when I wet the Teak. The finish I like is a Satin as I do not want a shiny finish.
Can you confirm that this is Teak?
What products do you suggest? Or should I use the MinWax Spare Urethane?
Thanks, Bill
Posts: 706
Threads: 37
Joined: May 2000
Location: Southeast, Florida
According to Google:
What is the best finish for teak wood?
Wood lacquer
Wood lacquer is the best interior finish for teak. It has a slightly lighter consistency than other finishes such as shellac, varnish or polyurethane and penetrates better. It dries faster and is easier to work with.
Posts: 12,606
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
I'm not sure what I wold use, but I'm real sure it wouldn't be "teak oil".
Check this article. I also wouldn't use any Minwax. Consider using something like Arm R Seal, easy to apply and should hold up very well in that service (indoors).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 706
Threads: 37
Joined: May 2000
Location: Southeast, Florida
(06-29-2020, 01:17 PM)fredhargis Wrote: I'm not sure what I wold use, but I'm real sure it wouldn't be "teak oil". Check this article. I also wouldn't use any Minwax. Consider using something like Arm R Seal, easy to apply and should hold up very well in that service (indoors).
Thank you... This product?
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishe...ed-topcoat
Posts: 12,606
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
(06-29-2020, 01:33 PM)bpatters69 Wrote: Thank you... This product?
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishe...ed-topcoat
Yep, that's the one. Bear in mind it's an oil based finish so it will add some of the "warm" tones that are inherit in oil based finishes.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 706
Threads: 37
Joined: May 2000
Location: Southeast, Florida
(06-29-2020, 02:04 PM)fredhargis Wrote: Yep, that's the one. Bear in mind it's an oil based finish so it will add some of the "warm" tones that are inherit in oil based finishes.
Thanks Fred... when you say "warm" tones, what do you mean?
Like I said, my wife prefers the unfinished Teak vs any kind of top coat.
Posts: 12,884
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(06-29-2020, 02:27 PM)bpatters69 Wrote: Thanks Fred... when you say "warm" tones, what do you mean?
Like I said, my wife prefers the unfinished Teak vs any kind of top coat.
If you want it to look unfinished then use a waterborne flat sheen finish, something like GF's Enduro Clear Poly Flat.
John
Posts: 22
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
If you’re not aware, Teak itself is an oily wood, which can interfere with an oil based finished. If you’re going to use the oil based finish, it’s usually best to wipe the wood with a fast-evaporating solvent such as naphtha, acetone or lacquer thinner just before applying the finish. That will help remove any of the wood’s oil from the surface and the finish will have time to bond and cure before the wood’s oil comes back to the surface.
Posts: 12,606
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
06-30-2020, 05:21 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-30-2020, 08:05 AM by fredhargis.)
The "warm tones" of an oil based finish (some call it amber, others probably call it something else) is always an issue with an oil based finish. It usually gets deeper over time. If you want water clear, you're best bet is a waterborne like the one John mentioned.
PS to add: some waterborne finishes have a dye to mimic the amber tones of an oil based finish. They usually explin that, so check before you buy if you're looking for a water clear version.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 706
Threads: 37
Joined: May 2000
Location: Southeast, Florida
I forgot to mention that I have quite a bit of CrystalLac PolyOxide which is designed for floor that is water based.
Would the Crystallac be a good option?
Here is a link to it:
WalMart Sells it
