New Japanese dovetail saw and gennou

[Aram]

I recently posted about wanting a new dozuki, primarily for dovetails in relatively thin, very hard hardwoods. I do believe in the old adage, "it's a poor craftsman who blames his tools." If you've ever cut joints with a Japanese saw, you know that it takes an extremely light touch to prevent digging and binding. I have found that the start of the cut dictates whether the rest of the cut will succeed. If the teeth dig in even a little, or even worse, blow out a tiny chip, it's a rough go from there. I have a couple of very good saws, the hardwood dozuki that Hida used to sell, and a very similar saw from Tools For Working Wood. Fine saws, but they do like to grab even when consciously unweighting the saw. More than that, I was very interested to see what i high level, hand made saw would be like to use. So I decided to buy one. I also wanted a gennou, instead of the wonderful but excessively (for fine joints) massive mallet that an anonymous Woodnetter made me for a Secret Santa event. I'll save that mallet for harder work.

HBMCC pointed me to Stan Covington, who I had not been aware of. Stan asked me for my saw specs. I had no idea what my specs were. I described the kind of work I do, the scale of it, the hardness of the woods, and sent a few photos of my projects. He passed that on to Takijiro, the master saw smith, who decided what I needed. Ordinarily, it would take him 3 months to complete a new saw. However, he had already made one that was perfect for my needs, so he used it and filed the teeth for my specific use. He even gave the teeth at the heel a bit steeper (if I recall correctly) rake than the rest of the teeth, to facilitate those starter cuts. Stan says he can tell what kind of steel the blade is made from by the way the file feels. I love this stuff. By the way, I have no idea how someone hand forges a blade this precise; among other things, it has to be perfectly flat. Or how Stan or Takijiro make enough money.

The saw is 210mm long. As it turns out, that is a bit more than I need, but that is a much better scenario than too short. It is absolutely gorgeous. To minimize the size of the box, the blade and the handle came separate. Stan had Takijiro install it and remove it, which apparently makes subsequent installs easy. No disagreement from me. You push the blade in a bit by hand, holding the spine, then hang the saw vertically from the handle, and tap the handle until the saw is fully seated. That's physics for you. Easy. (Evidently Takijiro was relieved to hear this. Some customers have screwed this part up -- maybe beating on it too hard? -- and complained about it.)



New saw teeth (top) vs Hida saw teeth (bottom):


Judging from the finer teeth, I expected slower going on the saw cuts. No way. This thing cuts so fast, I have to be careful.

Proof that this is not a shelf queen:


It is absolutely wonderful to use. That crucial first cut is a piece of cake. The rest, well, that depends on knowing how to saw, but wow, this thing zips down a line. The feel is superb, of course.

Now the gennou. On Stan's advice, I bought one that weighs about 240g. Just the head. In Japan, you make the handle. A buddy sent me a spare blank of osage orange, and off I went.

If you have worked with Stan, then you know that you will not be hurting for information. He describes gennou handle creation in a 39 page PDF file that leaves nothing unsaid. I used a guess of a template for the initial shape, but completed the handle the only way I know: worked it with spokeshaves, files, scrapers, and my favorite unsung shaping tool: the plane-maker's float, until it fit my hand. Fitting the neck of the handle into the eye (that's the mortise on the head that receives the handle) is obviously a precise thing, so it pays to go slow and take it a shaving at a time, with lots of test fits. In the end, you should not be able to shove the handle in by hand pressure. You get it started, and then, much like inserting the saw handle, hang the thing by the handle and bang away on the butt end until the head is fully seated. There is enough mass in the head to compress a very slightly oversized handle, and lock up good. No wedges used or allowed. By the way, the slight dome on the rear is to protect the butt end when banging on it to seat the head. Stan says a flat butt will not stand up to it. I finished the handle with TruOil. Note that I got a little overzealous with my spokeshave in one spot and the neck gets a touch thin, but nothing fatal. Overall, I like the way it came out.





It is very comfortable to use, and gives a much better feel for delicate work than the big basher.



You can make things with these tools. I like them.

[Howard Pollack]

Those tools look like they'd be a dream to work with. Stan is truly a delight and full of information. Enjoy yourself. -Howard

[hbmcc]

I'm glad you like them! I don't think Stan was expecting to profit from your saw purchase. And, that Osage Orange sure is bright. 

I wish Covington and Sons could develop the full service saw market. An owner can do basic tip sharpening but I think full sharpening needs to be sent back to Japan. That, or the skill is greedily hidden from public knowledge here in the states.

[barryvabeach]

Nice looking saw.  I had seen Stan's site, but did not see any saws on it,  or pricing.  That made me afraid to ask.

[Aram]

I'm glad you like them! I don't think Stan was expecting to profit from your saw purchase. And, that Osage Orange sure is bright. 

I wish Covington and Sons could develop the full service saw market. An owner can do basic tip sharpening but I think full sharpening needs to be sent back to Japan. That, or the skill is greedily hidden from public knowledge here in the states.

That is the recommendation. Wilbur has done an excellent job on my other saws, but when the time comes, this one goes back to Japan.

Nice looking saw.  I had seen Stan's site, but did not see any saws on it,  or pricing.  That made me afraid to ask.

Follow that instinct...  

[Aram]

that Osage Orange sure is bright. 

At first, yes. Osage orange will darken into more of a dull orange-brown color over time.

[hbmcc]

That is the recommendation. Wilbur has done an excellent job on my other saws, but when the time comes, this one goes back to Japan.

Bruce (hbmcc) said:
.... full sharpening needs to be sent back to Japan. That, or the skill is greedily hidden from public knowledge here in the states.

See what I mean...............

I ran across a "called" Osage Orange that was Central or S. American.

Ps. I have no idea what I mean ..... 



PPs. Orthopaedics is playing $$$$ games with my shoulder, what currently hinders western saw use. And, pull saw, to a lesser degree.

[Arlin Eastman]

The Saw and the Poundy thingy look great. 

[BrokenOlMarine]

I admire tools you make yourself then find they do the job.  I made a dowel forming plate I needed for a project.  I forgot where I saw one used, maybe Derek.  But mine works great.  I use cutoffs from projects to make the dowels and pins. 


Beautiful saw, same with the mallet.