Need to rotate cutters on Shelix head. Any advice?

[fredhargis]

I don't follow the marking part, they are stamped with a logo on one edge. I just keep that logo in the same orientation as I rotate them (only done it once). But I removed them a row at a time so I could clean the seats, and then replace the cutters. I torqued the to the proper spec with a little screwdriver type torque wrench (45 inch# I think). At one point I rotated them what I called "inside out". My reasoning (maybe faulty) was that the center most cutters receive most of the use, so I moved the outside cutters into the center, and the center ones to the outside of the cutterhead. Can't say with any evidence that it extended the life of the cutters...but I do know at the time I did it it seemed to make sense.

[Brian in sunny FL]

Here are the official Byrd instructions.

https://www.holbren.com/misc/byrd_cutter_install.pdf

Use whatever is easiest to get them out.  Make sure you know how they are indexed so you rotate them all one turn.

MUST use a torque wrench to finish them up, we use 45 inch pounds not ft pounds.  Use the supplied hand tool to get them all snug they finish up with the torque wrench.  I would do one row at a time.

[DieselDennis]

I'll only add that on the cutters I've turned in the past, the screw was a TORX Plus screw (as opposed to just a torx). Therefore it needs a Torx Plus driver or bit. The TORX Plus usually have an "IP" prefix, such as IP25.

Just something to double check. The last thing you want to do is strip a screw. Well, maybe second to last. I suppose breaking the screw would be the last.

[OBG53]

What Brian Dennis and other have said. Clean the seats, use a TP-25+ torx bit, use a 45 inch/pounds torque wrench after had tightening them. Make sure that you have the insert forward and let the hand tightening of the screw seat the insert. If you butt up the insert against the seat you will lift it up in the back and your cuts will be messed up. Been down that road once before. I also mark each side behind the cutter with a sharpie to identify the side. You can use whatever system you want to identify the sides as long as it makes sense to you.

[BloomingtonMike]

Always turn only one direction 90 degrees. Go slow.

[Wild Turkey]

Took a deep breath and got started.  Used industrial marker to mark dull edge.

Used air nozzle to blow everything loose out, grabbed my 18v impact and good driver bit and started taking screws and cutters out.

Then I used some carb cleaner and a brass brush to clean seats, etc.  Cutters, screws got same treatment in paper towel lined bin.

Positioned LED work light and grabbed first set.  Magnetic tip screwdriver was a big help.  Picked up screw with driver, grabbed cutter with left hand and positioned it on seat, then inserted screw and spun it down until close, then wiggled cutter until it felt like it was seated, tightened up screw some and repeated.  And repeated.  And repeated.




When I found the last one in the bin there were four empty holes so I grabbed spare cutters that came with cutter.  Only problem was three holes were messed up when screws came loose so I just skipped them for now.  (Hint:  10-32 flathead screws are not easy to find!)

Then I went back with electronic torque screwdriver gadget and started final tightening.

First row went very well.  Just remember you are stretching the screws so no sudden impulse on the driver.  If it starts to feel "easy" you've gone too far, possibly ruining the screw.

Second row was going well until about two-thirds the way across one insert went BANG and disappeared.  Guess it was cracked or I didn't clean the seat well enough.  Rest went well.

Overall about and hour to hour and a half.

Fired it up and it was cutting really smooth untill I noticed some metal shavings -- seemed I didn't adjust the chip breaker right and was shaving it a bit.

I'd lost a nut so no more until I go back tomorrow, but overall quick (relatively) and easy--especially if you've ever tried to set straight knives!!!