Drill Press Table

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

The reasons I bought a larger table are those that Derek gave.

[EdL]

My drill press table was to low for my liking, it's not adjustable (the head is) and no insert, solid cast iron with t-slots.
Depending on the workpiece, I find it easier to move the head rather than the work as its easier to position being able to freely move in x & y axis.

Ed

[mbg]

I just ordered a Nova Voyager after having a 15” Ridgid for more than 15 years. I want to make or buy a new table. My head turned when I saw the Woodpeckers DP-PRO. Initially sticker shock when I saw the price but if you look at all that’s included it would hard to do better with shop made.

Anyone have this table that can comment?

Thanks

[Derek Cohen]

I just ordered a Nova Voyager after having a 15” Ridgid for more than 15 years. I want to make or buy a new table. My head turned when I saw the Woodpeckers DP-PRO. Initially sticker shock when I saw the price but if you look at all that’s included it would hard to do better with shop made.

Anyone have this table that can comment?

Thanks

I posted a few pictures of mine earlier in the thread. Here is the build article:     http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20T...Table.html

I looked at the WP table, did not like it that much, and decided I could do better for much, much less. 

You do not need an expanding table. You need a bigger table.

You definitely do not want a square replaceable centre - far, far better is a round replacemement.

Dust extraction sucks whatever you use. I tried several methods using a Festool CT26e. It is easier to clear up afterwards - the only messy shavings are from forstner bits. 



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ridgeway]

This will probably sound like a silly question, but I'll ask anyway. What is the need for a drill press table?

The cast iron table on my Delta drill press has 2 parallel slots that support a fence. It also has 2 diagonal slots that support a hold-down or vise. 

What am I missing? 


--

Do you have the Delta that was specifically intended for woodworking?  Most DPs out there are intended for metal, so the tables were designed with metal, not wood, in mind.

[Bill_de]

Do you have the Delta that was specifically intended for woodworking?  Most DPs out there are intended for metal, so the tables were designed with metal, not wood, in mind.

I've had it a while, but now that you mention it I think it was offered as a woodworking dp.

[nodima]

I think I know the answer, but why is round better than rectangle for the insert?  Assuming the offset is to prevent it from spinning?



I posted a few pictures of mine earlier in the thread. Here is the build article:     http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20T...Table.html

I looked at the WP table, did not like it that much, and decided I could do better for much, much less. 

You do not need an expanding table. You need a bigger table.

You definitely do not want a square replaceable centre - far, far better is a round replacemement.

Dust extraction sucks whatever you use. I tried several methods using a Festool CT26e. It is easier to clear up afterwards - the only messy shavings are from forstner bits. 

 

Regards from Perth

Derek

[mbg]

I posted a few pictures of mine earlier in the thread. Here is the build article:     http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20T...Table.html

I looked at the WP table, did not like it that much, and decided I could do better for much, much less. 

You do not need an expanding table. You need a bigger table.

You definitely do not want a square replaceable centre - far, far better is a round replacemement.

Dust extraction sucks whatever you use. I tried several methods using a Festool CT26e. It is easier to clear up afterwards - the only messy shavings are from forstner bits. 

 

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek - I saw your nice post at the FOG on this too. Just wish I could source a UHMW table like this for less that 4-figures in US$. If I start from scratch making a table like yours but using 3/4" phenolic with t-tracks, tall fence, flip stops, and couple clamps your talking $350+. So this is why I asked about the DP-PRO. Although, form experience with my current table I like the expandable fence it has versus the expandable table the WP has. Ha maybe I just move over my 20+ year old fence to the new DP:


Old DP Table

[Derek Cohen]

I think I know the answer, but why is round better than rectangle for the insert?  Assuming the offset is to prevent it from spinning?

A square insert may be rotated four times. A round insert may be rotated many, many more times. 
My round insert is a friction fit, and does not move under its own steam. 
Regards from Perth
Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Derek - I saw your nice post at the FOG on this too. Just wish I could source a UHMW table like this for less that 4-figures in US$. If I start from scratch making a table like yours but using 3/4" phenolic with t-tracks, tall fence, flip stops, and couple clamps your talking $350+. So this is why I asked about the DP-PRO. Although, form experience with my current table I like the expandable fence it has versus the expandable table the WP has. Ha maybe I just move over my 20+ year old fence to the new DP:

I sourced the UHMW at a salvage yard. I would not now recommend this material as it is not stable. Mine developed a warp after about 2 months, and I had to bolt the top to steel sections (underneath) to keep it flat. It is otherwise a nice surface, scratch free and easy to keep clean.  

All up, my table was about $25. The Nova fence was thrown in free. Usually they sell in Oz for $100 AUD. The fence needs a track. It is not a good fit for the cast iron table as the underside of the table is not machined flat, and the ridges interfere with moving smoothly. I changed the low knobs at the rear to tall ones for easier access.

I made the table large enough for my purposes (mainly building furniture), and it is quite large. Extending sides looks inviting, but there is more to go wrong - can it remain straight and square? - and I would rather keep the construction simple.

A fence needs to do two things: firstly, to keep parts aligned, and secondly, to not get in the way of the chuck - hence a tall fence (better stability for tall pieces) needs to have a cut out at the centre (mine slides open up like a router table fence).

Regards from Perth

Derek