Deck railing conundrum

[Dumb_Polack]

Hi,

I'm helping my BIL install a deck and we're at the point where the railings go on.  However (yes, I sorta designed the deck so this one's on me), when we set the top post it is about 1 ft back from the edge of the top step (Picture #2).  Long story, but the the deck extended out past the edge.  This add'l part is actually the stringer for the stairs.  I forgot to start the stairs at the end of the deck so the deck projects past the corner of it.

So, it doesn't look like picture #1 where the railing would naturally descend down and not hit the extension on the deck.

As it stands now, if we try to install the railing it'll need to cut thru the top step.  Don't think that would look good.


#3 is an option but that means removing a few courses of decking and installing another post.  I don't think that would look good as those 2 deck posts would only be about 6-10" apart.  Plus it would be a ton of work.  I really don't want to do option #3.


How would you address my screw-up?  Thanks!

[FS7]

Option 3 is not that much work. Additionally, I believe this is quite common in practice. Having two posts be that closely aligned is expected when dealing with stairs or odd-shaped corners. If you do a quick search for the average deck you'll find that many shorter stair landings (such as those that simply go from a door right down) take this approach.

Besides, there really isn't any other option. I have never seen a railing cut through a deck and I imagine that would look very out of place. Code compliance is unknown, but I would be pretty certain it's not.

[joe1086]

#3.

If I recall your deck posts extend to the ground. Are you thinking the new post would need to be the same? If you add the correct blocking to the deck joists below the new post you could use something like the Titan post anchor. It meets the 200 pound lateral force requirement. There are other similar devices out there too.

[brianwelch]

Does the railing terminate at the current top post? I have seen cantilevered wood railing connections (envision a "dog-leg" railing), but I think the railing would need to extend back either to the wall or at least another post.

[Snipe Hunter]

#3................................

[barnowl]

#3, but with a question.

Does the deck abut the house?

If so, why does the post closest to the house have to be fastened to the deck?

Make it a partial post to support the rails, but fasten it to the house, with no "post" below the bottom rail.

[Dumb_Polack]

#3, but with a question.

Does the deck abut the house?

If so, why does the post closest to the house have to be fastened to the deck?

Make it a partial post to support the rails, but fasten it to the house, with no "post" below the bottom rail.

Yes it does abut the house.  it extend out from the house about 16 feet and then the stairs descend.

Not sure I'm following what you're suggesting, Barn.

[barnowl]

Yes it does abut the house.  it extend out from the house about 16 feet and then the stairs descend.

Not sure I'm following what you're suggesting, Barn.

Move the post right up against the house.

Fasten it to the house. 

Either leave it full length, for strength, or if it is good and strong against the house, cut the post from under the bottom rail, for looks.

or....

Just use a half width post, so that it doesn't look as clumsy, and fasten it to the house, and the deck.



Edit to add:

I just looked at your "it extend out from the house about 16 feet and then the stairs descend."

That is NOT what you drew. What you drew is only a set of stairs. No deck.

THAT changes everything. You've got no choice.... you have to either do number 3, or relocate the post.

[6270_Productions]

You know you have to do #3.

Consider this a "design opportunity" and install additional posts. 
Make them look like balusters. 
Challenge somebody to find your mistake. 
Learn from your mistake. 

Preceding list is not necessarily in the correct order.  

[MstrCarpenter]

Option#3 isn't really that hard. Cutting the proper size hole in the correct spot is the toughest part. Drop the post down the hole, shim as necessary and bolt to the ribbon joist. Add blocking between the joists to prevent side movement. It won't move forward/back due to the other post and the stair rail being a diagonal brace.