Posts: 18,423
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Free At Last!
How do you guys like the Freud 30T glue line blades? I'm looking for a dedicated hardwood rip blade for my Jet JPS-10 wired for 220V. It has to be full kerf since the saw has a riving knife.
I already have a combo blade for crosscuts and plywood. I have a CMT 24T blade that I can use for really thick cuts.
My goal is a really smooth cut so I can cut back the amount of sanding after ripping.
Posts: 8,313
Threads: 1
Joined: Mar 2000
I have one, and it's done well.
Assuming that the saw is properly tuned/aligned, I think burning is more a function of blade sharpness and perhaps residue buildup.
Regarding full-kerf blades: I've been a "think-kerf" guy for many years and most of my current blades are Freud think-kerf combo blades. However, I think I've bought my last thin-kerf blade. Future replacements will be full-kerf, likely Freud.
Posts: 194
Threads: 1
Joined: Jul 2016
Location: WI
I have one and if used as directed it has done a good job for me. You should be aware of the material thickness that this blade is rated for.
Posts: 18,423
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Free At Last!
"Assuming that the saw is properly tuned/aligned, I think burning is more a function of blade sharpness and perhaps residue buildup.
Regarding full-kerf blades: I've been a "think-kerf" guy for many years and most of my current blades are Freud think-kerf combo blades. However, I think I've bought my last thin-kerf blade. Future replacements will be full-kerf, likely Freud."
I've not been getting much burning (I do if I use a combo blade), I just notice blade marks on the cut that I need to sand out. I would be happy if they are reduced.
When I first bought this saw, I had a good thin kerf combo blade from my old saw and tried to find a thinner riving knife. I gave up and bought a standard blade and sold the thin kerf blade.
Posts: 18,423
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Free At Last!
"I have one and if used as directed it has done a good job for me. You should be aware of the material thickness that this blade is rated for."
I saw that it says up to 1". I'll keep my CMT blade for the rare thicker stuff or run multiple passes. Most of what I do is 1/2" - 1".
Posts: 748
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: ATL
Quote:I've been a "think-kerf" guy for many years and most of my current blades are Freud think-kerf combo blades. However, I think I've bought my last thin-kerf blade.
care to share why you've come to this conclusion ?
Posts: 8,313
Threads: 1
Joined: Mar 2000
(01-02-2021, 11:07 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: care to share why you've come to this conclusion ?
- Riving knife on my saw tends to have a small "hang" when the leading edge of the workpiece contacts it when using a thin-kerf blade.
- Less chance of blade deflection on long rip cuts or when making for tablesaw cove cuts.
- Better heat dissipation on long rip cuts with full-kerf blades.
- Don't have to account for blade thickness against fence settings if I'm swapping back and forth between thin-kerf and full-kerf blades.
I originally went thin-kerf since I was using a 1.5HP contractor's saw on the single 110V 15A circuit that used to power my garage-based shop. Reducing the kerf resistance was an important factor to me then. I have a 3HP saw now and plenty of power in the shop.
Posts: 6,678
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2003
Location: Southern California
I had a 30T that produced beautiful edges that were probably glue ready but I always ran a plane over them so I quit using the blade. Wasn't worth the blade changing hassle.
Thanks, Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
-- Soren Kierkegaard
Posts: 22,324
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Oakdale, MN
(01-01-2021, 02:52 AM)lincmercguy Wrote: How do you guys like the Freud 30T glue line blades? I'm looking for a dedicated hardwood rip blade for my Jet JPS-10 wired for 220V. It has to be full kerf since the saw has a riving knife.
I already have a combo blade for crosscuts and plywood. I have a CMT 24T blade that I can use for really thick cuts.
My goal is a really smooth cut so I can cut back the amount of sanding after ripping.
I have 5. Fantastic rip blade.
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
Posts: 1,872
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Eastern WA
01-05-2021, 10:33 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-05-2021, 10:41 AM by rschissler.)
My go to blade is a Freud P410 Fusion, 40 teeth. How can a 30 tooth blade be considered glue line or glue ready? A higher tooth blade should give a smoother finish, right, and I would think that a 60-80 tooth blade would give the smoothest finish? Or is the thinking that a 24 tooth blade is standard, so a 30 tooth makes it glue ready?
