Doh!

[KC]

I'll still send some sympathy. May need it down the road. .........

Along with that little table, I also started cutting out the templates for a Hal Taylor rocker sometime around 2008.  Can't find them now, so hopefully Hal can send me the drawing again.  Because I'm finally really ready to start that.  'Down the road' may be soon.

[toolmiser]

Think about how that one mistake averages over all those years. I can make a lot more mistakes in a lot less time. I seem to practice too much.

[Terry W]

I feel your pain. Just a few days ago I was working on a small wall cabinet that has a door, drawers and crown moulding.  It was later in the day and I wanted to quit but decided to just go ahead and glue on the crown moulding so it could setup overnight. I was in a rush but  the miters were still dead-on perfect. I was so pleased with myself. Well, until the next morning when I discovered I installed the crown moulding on the  bottom of the cabinet instead of the top!

[FrankAtl]

That moment when you realize what you've done is chilling! I usually just turn everything off and go have a beer.

[tablesawtom]

I did basically the same thing when building my work bench. It happens. Know this, a lot of us have done things like this and it is usually on a project that has been put aside for a while. The excitement just isn't there, it is just finally finishing it. It is in finishing it that can get you in trouble.

If you don't call anybody's attention to it they will not see it and in six months you will forget the mistakes and it will be fine.

Tom

[BrokenOlMarine]

I've posted this here several times before...
An old mentor... Long since passed, told me this:

 "It's not a mistake unless someone saw you make it, until you can't correct it.  Until thrn, it's a fluid change to the design."

[R Clark]

Along with that little table, I also started cutting out the templates for a Hal Taylor rocker sometime around 2008.  Can't find them now, so hopefully Hal can send me the drawing again.  Because I'm finally really ready to start that.  'Down the road' may be soon.

If Hal can't fix you up on that drawing, let me know and we can figure something out.

Edit to add: Hal has been good to me on that kind of thing. I got the plans and the DVD follow-along; that is a 3-disc set. LOML was reducing DVD players and took some excess players to Goodwill. Problem: Unknown to her, Disc 3 of the rocker vids was in the player. I sent a note to Hal asking how to buy a replacement DVD. Hal sent a whole new DVD set right away...no charge.

[PaulM85]

So I cut all the parts for a little mesquite coffee table base sometime prior to 2008.  Moved it twice now.  Managed to not lose any parts in all that time.  Figured I may as well finish it... so glued the two 'gates' yesterday.  
  

Finish sanded this morning, ready to glue to the pieces together... and sure as hell, despite KNOWING I had to be careful, I still put one of the legs backward.  See 'innie' corbel.  


So 12 years I've been looking at this thing... and dammit!  I'm gonna try to break that joint without tearing up the leg.  Good test for the Gorilla glue.  
   The corbels are atached with a sliding dovetail.  Fix might have been easier if it weren't for that.   Sympathy appreciated.  

KC, I can sympathize with you, eventually everyone puts a piece in backwards or routs the wrong side, once (so I hear).  I build and repair furniture professionally, Gorilla glue shouldn't be used on indoor furniture. Use Titebond Original or hide glue, if it's going to be an interior piece of furniture. They are more than strong enough and very importantly reversible and repairable. Gorilla glue was developed to glue outdoor teak furniture, it will penetrate wood fibers and block it from absorbing glue in the future. I find it becomes quite brittle with age. I worked in a furniture repair shop and if a customer brought in a piece that had been repaired with GG in the past, the owner declined the job. I have repaired furniture with GG in the joints for my own customers and I use epoxy on them for repairs, titebond rarely penetrates and bonds pieces well after GG has been used. More work is always involved and I charge more to repair them.  
   I have worked on and own furniture that is 70+ years to over 150 years old that have original hide glue joints that are still solid. I have also repaired joints that old that have come apart. Any joint that lasts over 50 years of use is a success, especially if only the glue and wood dries out and the joint loosens up. A little hot water injected into the joint, time and gentle persuasion usually separate the joints and allow you to clean them up with little to no damage. I rarely use Titebond 2 or 3, I use TB2 only in kitchen and bathroom cabinets (damp applications) and I use TB3 or epoxy on any outdoor furniture.  Good luck in the future, as a tip, labeling pieces with painters tape and a marker when disassembling a piece for repair or during the dry assembly of a new piece with the corresponding labels next to each other 1-1, 2-2 and so on will make it difficult to make the mistake you made. It's very easy when you're trying to get things assembled quickly before the glue sets up. 

Paul Mitzel 
Bel Air, MD

[Gary G™]

Glad you could fix it. It’s going to be great.

the thru tenons were a tight slip fit, and I used the Gorilla poly ...

At least you didn’t use it for your hairdo.

[stav]

That would have been the side that went in the corner of the room.  

Glad it came apart for you.