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In cleaning out a shed for a neighbor I got some 2" by 10"-12" rough cut walnut boards. They are somewhat twisted and need to spend some time at my 6" x 54" Grizzly jointer. I was able to cross cut them to size on the RAS, but unsure of the best way to rip them to a workable width.
I have a table saw and a couple of track saws, and would appreciate any recommendations.
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See ya later,
Bill
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(04-13-2021, 10:35 AM)Bill_de Wrote: In cleaning out a shed for a neighbor I got some 2" by 10"-12" rough cut walnut boards. They are somewhat twisted and need to spend some time at my 6" x 54" Grizzly jointer. I was able to cross cut them to size on the RAS, but unsure of the best way to rip them to a workable width.
I have a table saw and a couple of track saws, and would appreciate any recommendations.
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I've switched to using my band saw for just about all of the rough or initial ripping as it is easier and safer than the TS.
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(04-13-2021, 10:58 AM)nodima Wrote: I've switched to using my band saw for just about all of the rough or initial ripping as it is easier and safer than the TS.
DUH!
Thank you so much! I have a 14" Powermatic in good working condition.
See ya later,
Bill
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After I posted, I realized that I probably should have asked if you had access to one.
Good luck, should be child's play for that saw.
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Even if they are twisted. that's a nice catch! I should be so lucky.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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I have a 12’ long straight edge (milled hard maple) and an aluminum billet I use to rip bowed boards.
As long as the ends of the victim are shorter than my straight edge, it’s easy and safe.
The straight edge rides next to the fence and the victim rides between the straight edge and the blade.
This configuration allows one to produce a straight edge on the bowed board.
Gary
Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
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(04-13-2021, 03:37 PM)Gary G™ Wrote: I have a 12’ long straight edge (milled hard maple) and an aluminum billet I use to rip bowed boards.
As long as the ends of the victim are shorter than my straight edge, it’s easy and safe.
The straight edge rides next to the fence and the victim rides between the straight edge and the blade.
This configuration allows one to produce a straight edge on the bowed board.
True, but I'm not talking bowed, I'm talking twisted.
I think with your setup and these boards would still bind the blade.
Thanks for commenting.
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See ya later,
Bill
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You can make a sled for a band saw or table saw that will hold it and let it pass by the blade. Use some shims if needed. Once you have one or two sides flat, the rest will follow.
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(04-13-2021, 11:02 AM)Bill_de Wrote: Thank you so much! I have a 14" Powermatic in good working condition.
Sounds like you're all set.
I'd recommend doing your initial milling oversize, then sticker and see what the wood does after resting for a day or two.
What are you planning to make with this windfall?
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Shims for twisted boards.
So long as the board is stabilized, the blade will cut it straight as held.
I don’t know if this buys you much though.
Another thought:
You might consider a planer sled and skip planing one side.
I’ve done this with black walnut, black cherry and heart pine with very good results.
Once one side has enough flatness to be stable, back to my straight edge method.
Gary
Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
