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Did a search for this topic did not find anything. Here's the deal. I cracked a workpiece. It would be a long difficult process to recreate it so I want to glue it up. However, I don't want to spread the crack too much and lose the whole piece. I am diabetic so I have needles. What I want to do is thin the glue and inject into the crack with the needle. But, there is a lot of resistance through that 29 gauge needle. How much can I thin this before it just isn't glue anymore?
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08-21-2021, 11:46 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-21-2021, 02:25 PM by fredhargis.)
If you're gluing joints, Titebond says (IIRC) that 5% is the max....after that you lose bonding strength. If you're making a glue size for MDF edges or whatever, thin you can thin it a whole lot more.
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CA might work better. Already thin and will go into the crack better than Titebond
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08-21-2021, 02:07 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-21-2021, 02:08 PM by packerguy®.)
(08-21-2021, 01:13 PM)Turner52 Wrote: CA might work better. Already thin and will go into the crack better than Titebond
Or 2 part epoxy.
I wouldn't thin titebond when there are better options.
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(08-21-2021, 11:28 AM)Eurekan Wrote: Did a search for this topic did not find anything. Here's the deal. I cracked a workpiece. It would be a long difficult process to recreate it so I want to glue it up. However, I don't want to spread the crack too much and lose the whole piece. I am diabetic so I have needles. What I want to do is thin the glue and inject into the crack with the needle. But, there is a lot of resistance through that 29 gauge needle. How much can I thin this before it just isn't glue anymore?
Epoxy runs like water when there are no additives. Two part epoxy as another post reccomended it will work better than thinned carpenters glue. It will dry clear too.
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Put a little titebond in a plastic cup and microwave it for 5 seconds. A little longer if needed.
It'll flow thru the needle fine after heating.
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If you can get a vacuum hose from the other end and suck the glue into the crack, or use compressed air to force it in.
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08-21-2021, 09:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-21-2021, 09:45 PM by Willyou.)
A photo of the workpiece would help. However, if there is a back side of the work piece, a side that won't be seen when the project is completed, drill a hole into the back side making it stop when it reaches the crack or perhaps slightly deeper. Make the hole a accurately as you can with no wobble to the drill bit. Make the hole the same size as a standard piece of wood dowel; 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", whatever is appropriated. Now take a piece of dowel of the same size and sand it down slightly so that it will slip into the hole with finger pressure and you are able to remove it also with finger pressure. Now put some glue into the hole and insert the dowel. Apply pressure to the dowel and it will act as a piston to force glue into the crack. Depending on the size of the hole and the crack, you may have to repeat the process. Once the crack is filled, you can leave the dowel in place and cut it off flush. This works especially well if you can drill the hole along the same alignment as the crack.
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(08-21-2021, 08:09 PM)Scoony Wrote: If you can get a vacuum hose from the other end and suck the glue into the crack, or use compressed air to force it in.
I did that a few times when i could get the hose in position and it worked great.
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(08-21-2021, 08:09 PM)Scoony Wrote: If you can get a vacuum hose from the other end and suck the glue into the crack, or use compressed air to force it in.
A vacuum worked for me when I needed to glue up a piece of delaminated formica. I used masking tape to seal the nozzle to the countertop.
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