Couple Byrd head quickie questions

[Aram]

Time to rotate the cutters. 

- Standard T25? Holbren web site mentions Torx Plus, but I thought that was a specialty thing for high torque?

- What kind oil should I use on the threads?

Thanks all,
Aram

[iclark]

No idea on the oil (or not).

Those screws can sometimes take some impact to break them loose.

[fredhargis]

I seem to recall they are slightly different from standard Torx, and it might have been the Torx Plus. I've always used the bit they included, but a standard bit works well. I would not oil the threads, but I was sure to use a torque wrench and tighten to the correct torque (45 INCH lbs. if I recall correctly). I used one of those screwdriver type thingys that I had for tightening scope mounts on rifles, but suspect even a HF small torque wrench will do. Also, be sure to clean the seats just before re-installing the insert. It's actually a tedious job.

Edit in: I looked at the bit they gave me and it is a Torx plus (it's marked TP25). In comparing it to a standard Torx, the "finger" have a flat tip and are a little thicker toward the outer edges. The regular Torx has a more pointed "finger" at the end.

[shoottmx]

I've used Never-Seez NSBT-8 Silver Gray Regular Grade Anti-Seize Compound, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can  --search Amazon, also available at NAPA, etc. Use sparingly, been using the same can for years. It seems to stay on the threads forever--makes nuts and bolts easy to remove after many heat and vibration cycles. Learned about this stuff years ago from a sprint car mechanic.

FWIW, I believe lubricated threads should not be tightened to full torque. Link



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[Philip1231]

I never used lubricant on the cutter screws: my logic was that the putting oil on the screws will impact the torque setting. Here is link to their video install instructions: they do not mention using oil:

Byrd Insert Instructions

I would give them a call to verify this: I'd hate to consider the consequences of one of those cutters flying off during use

[Aram]

I never used lubricant on the cutter screws: my logic was that the putting oil on the screws will impact the torque setting. Here is link to their video install instructions: they do not mention using oil:

Byrd Insert Instructions

I would give them a call to verify this: I'd hate to consider the consequences of one of those cutters flying off during use

Thanks, everyone. Good idea about contacting them, and wow, do they respond quickly. Here is their response.

Aram,

You do not have to use any lubricant on the thread. You can if you choose to however. A drop or 2 of wd-40, oil, or anything with an oil base would be ok. The inserts should be torqued to around 40-45 INCH pounds and wouldn't be affected either way (with or without lubricant).  Sometimes when seating the inserts they will accidentally ride up onto the back of the seat causing misalignment. I like to use the "thumb" method of seating the inserts. Loosening the screw about a quarter to half turn (enough the insert moves freely) then pressing flat down on the carbide between the back of the screw and the seat with your thumb. When you do this it will kick the front of the insert up a bit. While holding that position with one hand, tighten the screw with the other. This allows the insert to slide up into the back of the seat instead of slipping above it. Hope this was helpful.

Regards,
Shannon

[DieselDennis]

Get a torx plus driver.  If it's a size 25, it's probably listed as IP25.  Yes, a regular T25 will work, but it's kind of like taking off a nut and bolt using channel-lock pliers.  On a Torx Plus driver and screw, the "points" are rounded over.  On a regular Torx, the points actually come to a point.  

If you really want to do it right, they sell torque drivers just for these screws.  

[Aram]

Get a torx plus driver.  If it's a size 25, it's probably listed as IP25.  Yes, a regular T25 will work, but it's kind of like taking off a nut and bolt using channel-lock pliers.  On a Torx Plus driver and screw, the "points" are rounded over.  On a regular Torx, the points actually come to a point.  

If you really want to do it right, they sell torque drivers just for these screws. 

Thanks. As it turned out, I found the bit that came with my Byrd head. It has a 1/4" socket, so I can use one of my torque drivers. So much for an excuse to get a new Wiha tool....

[Brian in sunny FL]

They are Torx Plus or TP25 which have a broader shoulder than the standard Torx.  There should have been a bit included with the head for 1/4" drive.  Use a torque wrench to set to 45 inch pounds to tighten them.  You can start the screws with a hand tool but use a torque wrench to finish them.

Byrd suggests you set the insert on the ledge and let the screw bring it down into the seat.

[Wild Turkey]

Rotated the cutters on my 8" jointer not too long ago.  Don't remember which driver I used but I did use a "torque screwdriver"


Didn't use an impact because it was quicker to use screwdriver to loosen screws than to chase the ones that I didn't get off the trigger quick enough and flew out. 


Two things I learned:

1. 45 inch-pounds is not a lot. Screwdriver was plenty to get them tight.

2. Cutters are brittle.  Started tightening one up and it was cocked somehow and as soon as I started to tighten it the cutter disintegrated. 


Hint: use marker, paint stick, etc to mark used edges and be sure to rotate them all the same way. 

So get a comfortable work position, vacuum/blow it out carefully and work carefully.  Doesn't take as long as it would seem once you get a rhythm going.

Did I mention get all the dust out of the work area?