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My new house has an 18 x 18 unfinished (cinder block) garage. I’m thinking of running a 220 line into a new sub panel, and getting my tools out of storage. It will be a tight fit. I’m not sure I’ll be able to get in my TS, 17” BS, 8” jointer, DC, planer stand, and miter setup. And, still keep the large garb and recycling bins, kids bikes, etc.
But the first question is whether I should finish the walls first? Is it worth the cost and hassle to put up furring strips and Sheetrock (plywood)? I figure this will make it much easier to attach cabinets to the walls later. Or maybe it’s going to be more of a hassle to put up all the furring strips?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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You can utilize the space by setting up the big tools so they can be pulled away from the wall for use. I do that in my basement shop, using flex tubing for DC hook ups, with the main PVC line mounted on a wall and the DC in a corner. It is kind of a pain to have to do that, but preferable to no shop. If you use furring strips, use PT wood(same as concrete contact).
I think I'd just install studs on the wall(unless you want the look of sheetrock). You may have a moisture problem from the block walls. A ridge vent and soffit vents will go a long way to minimize that and are fairly easy to install. I used an unheated wooden shed with just a ridge vent(no soffits) which used the double door for the air intake. An unanticipated bonus to the ridge vent was the shed stayed cooler until noon or so in the summer.
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For sure make everything movable like Mac said. For the walls, I think furring strips will make things a hassle later, I'd do nothing (mount right to the block) or what Mac said with the 2x stock.
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I too don't think you need to cover up with furring strips and drywall unless you need to insulate. As for moisture invasion why not use a waterproofing paint to minimize the problem. Just make sure to fill all cracks. It would also brighten your interior. Hanging cabinets and electrical runs later on should not be a problem.
You do not mention your floor. Is it smooth enough to easily roll around 300+ lb machinery? Does the floor need insulation? An OSB raised floor on 2x2 treated studs with foam board insulation may help your insulating, smoothing and leg fatigue.
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I think it depends upon where you are, how the weather varies and how tight the building is.
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The floors are pretty good. I’m in westchester, NY, and the garage is unheated. I’m not sure insulating it will make much of a difference.
Thanks for all the advice.
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The first thing I would do is put up studs or furring strips with insulation in between and then cover with either plywood or pegboard. Then insulate the ceiling. This will make a big difference both summer and winter. If you plan on working there in the winter, a small ceiling mounted electric heater with a circulating fan and thermostat will help even more. You will also need to insulate and seal the OH door. Then consider putting the rest of the non-shop related stuff into an exterior shed.
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(11-28-2021, 10:57 PM)Willyou Wrote: The first thing I would do is put up studs or furring strips with insulation in between and then cover with either plywood or pegboard. Then insulate the ceiling. This will make a big difference both summer and winter. If you plan on working there in the winter, a small ceiling mounted electric heater with a circulating fan and thermostat will help even more. You will also need to insulate and seal the OH door. Then consider putting the rest of the non-shop related stuff into an exterior shed.
+ a bunch
Studs, wiring rough-in (with inspection if required), then insulation, then plywood or OSB for the walls. Paint the walls white to enhance your lighting and to provide color reference.
Good insulation on the underside of the roof (in the rafters). That leaves you access to the joists for storage and hanging things like heaters or DCs.
If natural gas is an option, then NG heaters are cheaper than electric to run in most areas.
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(11-28-2021, 09:40 PM)David Stone Wrote: The floors are pretty good. I’m in westchester, NY, and the garage is unheated. I’m not sure insulating it will make much of a difference.
Thanks for all the advice.
It hasn't been really cold for more than overnights and a couple days in a row here (Nebraska) yet, but the coolest my insulated <700sf garage has been in the morning is 51 degrees. Full winter will be the real test, but I have to think the rock wool and sheet rock has made a difference.
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(11-29-2021, 01:57 AM)iclark Wrote: + a bunch
Studs, wiring rough-in (with inspection if required), then insulation, then plywood or OSB for the walls. Paint the walls white to enhance your lighting and to provide color reference.
Good insulation on the underside of the roof (in the rafters). That leaves you access to the joists for storage and hanging things like heaters or DCs.
If natural gas is an option, then NG heaters are cheaper than electric to run in most areas.
If it was me, this is what I would do. Also, put my +1, +2, +whatever, on the suggestions to mobilize all your equipment.
Now's the time to outfit the space with studs, rough electric, and insulation, most of which can be done DIY to minimize cost. The biggest game-changer for me was to get a heated and insulated shop that allows me to work every day of the year as I desire. In my former uninsulated garage shop, it was so cold five months of the year that I rarely did anything out there in those months. Using portable kerosene and propane heaters got very inconvenient and very stinky, not to mention potentially hazardous.
(11-29-2021, 07:58 AM)KC Wrote: It hasn't been really cold for more than overnights and a couple days in a row here (Nebraska) yet, but the coolest my insulated <700sf garage has been in the morning is 51 degrees. Full winter will be the real test, but I have to think the rock wool and sheet rock has made a difference.
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