Help With a Jet 1220 Lathe

[iclark]

Do you guys think a good penetrating oil would help? Might have been in storage a while.

Probably not much. The fit of that taper is too tight and the problem is not likely to be oxidation bonding things in place.

A large diameter knockout rod and a sharp rap with a 2lb hammer will send the center flying across the room.

Wear safety glasses in case the hammer chips due to a near-miss.

[TDKPE]

I had already tried using the knockout rod, but with the point gone it had nothing to bite on!

I'm afraid you lost me there.  What point, and why does it need to be there?

As the others said, a steel rod like a battering ram will shock it out of the spindle.  Don't use a wooden dowel and hammer, as that will just beat up your bearings.  You want to shock it like a Newton's cradle ball hitting the stack of stationary balls, not beat it out with the bearings taking the brunt.

I made my own from a length of steel rod and the shift knob I made for a Volkswagen Beetle in the 60's but never used. One of my first turned pieces.

[iclark]

I'm afraid you lost me there.  What point, and why does it need to be there?

As the others said, a steel rod like a battering ram will shock it out of the spindle.  Don't use a wooden dowel and hammer, as that will just beat up your bearings.  You want to shock it like a Newton's cradle ball hitting the stack of stationary balls, not beat it out with the bearings taking the brunt.

I made my own from a length of steel rod and the shift knob I made for a Volkswagen Beetle in the 60's but never used.  One of my first turned pieces. 

Someone stuck a live center in the headstock spindle.

The live center had a removable center point in addition to the cup. The point has either been removed or someone knocked it out with an undersized knockout rod.

Without that point, the knockout rod the the OP is trying to use just passes through the hole in the live center body.

The OP needs to use a larger diameter rod for the knockout that is too big to pass through the hole through the taper. Trying to use the undersized rod on one shoulder of the MT2 usually just wedges the taper in tighter.

Good point on not using wood for the rod. Aluminum would probably not be a good choice either.

[iclark]

I recently purchased a barely used Jet 1220VS Lathe and need a little help! 

The point has been removed from the live center and the live center is stuck in the headstock...please let me know if you have any ideas/suggestions as to how to remove it!?

Thanks in advance, Tim C.

Tim,

The suggestion we all forgot to make is to ask you (roughly) where you are located. We might have a member or a friend of a member who could stop by and give you a hand.

Ivan

[TDKPE]

Without that point, the knockout rod the the OP is trying to use just passes through the hole in the live center body.

Ah, now I see. 

And yes, a larger rod is needed, both for bearing against the end of the taper, and for the greater kinetic energy and shock value.  


Mine is a length of 1/2" steel rod, but a larger diameter would still work, and probably better at that.