How would you attack this base to the top?

[jcclark]

I like to use these, all it requires is to route a groove in the uprights

   

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I would most likely cut my veneers and make the base from plywood. Lighter, more stable, and wouldn’t detract from the piece overall.

Z clips in a small slot, not a long dado, could be an option but I would think about covering them with a magnetically attached wood “button” or housing. It would be something small, simple, and not too flashy as to draw attention.

[jteneyck]

I would most likely cut my veneers and make the base from plywood.  Lighter, more stable, and wouldn’t detract from the piece overall. 

Z clips in a small slot, not a long dado, could be an option but I would think about covering them with a magnetically attached wood “button” or housing.  It would be something small, simple, and not too flashy as to draw attention.

Not my choice - it's all going to be solid wood.  


John

[jteneyck]

Looks heavy. All solid construction? Need something stout when someone decides to move it by picking it up by the tabletop alone.

I'd consider machining some 2" x 4" (?) aluminum plates out of 1/4 stock, one for each of the four stand sections. Bolt them to legs and create pockets on the underside of the table so they sit flush. Elongate the holes where appropriate to accommodate movement. Use threaded inserts for all the bolts. 

Find a way to attach a hidden wrench under the table because folks that shop at RH aren't likely to have tools. 

Well that would be really stout, for sure.  The kid I'm making the components for has a CNC.  He could really claim some ownership by milling those plates.  He's a good kid but clueless about furniture construction, finishing, pretty much everything related to building a piece of furniture.  He's one of several young guys that buy wood from me that are selling stuff but have almost no skills beyond ambition.  I don't know who he's selling to but they must have low expectations.  I try to teach him something new almost every time he undertakes a new project.  If I keep at it he may become a woodworker.  We'll see.   

John

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

That will be one heavy table for sure!

[lincmercguy]

Another option would be to use z-clips. Run them along one side of the legs parallel to the grain. Then on the legs perpendicular to the grain run them along one or both sides with slots to allow for movement. That should be strong enough when someone lifts the table.

Cliff

What about z-clips along with floating tenons to keep the base in the proper position?  Elongated mortises could be used where movement is a concern, maybe tight mortises close to the center.

The z-clips would hold it together and allow movement and the tenons would keep anything from slipping out of position away from z-clips.  Maybe it's overkill.

Does it need to be able to be disassembled to get through doors?

[Ridgeway]

I'd be tempted just to put a single substantial dowel right in the center and then something simple (like a couple of small dowels) along one of the legs to keep the top from rotating, but still allow for movement.

[cputnam]

Does it have to fasten? Solid wood top will stay put with 2 free dowels. Yes?

[brianwelch]

Could you recess the base into the top? Four recessed steel plates/magnets at the interface (one each nearest the outermost perimeter) so not visible unless the table is dismantled...

[AHill]

Another vote for loose tenons or dowels. I like the idea of tenons secured by a dowel in the base. You want to make sure the top is secure once placed on the platform. Someone, some day will try to sit on the edge of the table and if it's not secure, bad things will happen.

Another method is using something called a table top fastener. It's a zig-zag shaped piece of metal where the top and bottom are parallel. The upper part screws on to the table top. The lower part fits into a small kerf in the table base.

https://www.rockler.com/table-top-fasteners