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(01-04-2022, 10:25 AM)Cooler Wrote: If you are not putting end panels on frameless cabinets, then you need to hide the back panel's edge. A piece of moulding would do just as well however.
I mill a slot and slide the panel in. I leave 3/4" behind that panel for the hanger cleat. That way the hanger is hidden.
Thanks, that's what I was thinking (it just serves to hide).. in my particular case there will be decorative end panels hiding it all. So a 1/4" panel in a slot, that provides enough overall rigidity for a frameless design? (maybe I'm over-thinking the importance of a face frame in box rigidity?)
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(01-04-2022, 11:15 AM)mound Wrote: Thanks, that's what I was thinking (it just serves to hide).. in my particular case there will be decorative end panels hiding it all. So a 1/4" panel in a slot, that provides enough overall rigidity for a frameless design? (maybe I'm over-thinking the importance of a face frame in box rigidity?)
I use dowels, and dowels provide a good bit of rigidity. I used to simply make dadoes and clamp. That stole about 3/4" from the top and bottom of the interiors. In either case I add a piece of 3/4" stock across the back at the top and the bottom. That piece is typically 3" - 4" wide. I use several pocket screws for those, and they add a good bit of rigidity.
Dowels allow me to make the tops and bottoms flush with the sides. I use a CMT jig that makes it fast and easy to do. I bought it from Amazon.de (Germany) but IGM markets it under their own brand name and they have a better video.
https://www.igmtools.com/igm-fkp656-bori...els/?tab=6
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01-05-2022, 10:01 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-05-2022, 10:02 AM by Handplanesandmore.)
I have never built any cabinets with 1/2" material as their backs. All commercial cabinets I bought have either 1/8" or 1/4" back.
Simon
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I've seen plans (probably sponsored by Kreg) that call for 3/4" panel for the back held in place with pocket holes. All butt joints held together with pocket hole screws.
It seems like an expensive way to build cabinets.
The builder-grade cabinets in my home are 5/8". Better grades of cabinets use 3/4" or 20mm thick panels for the boxes.
Do remember that the wall becomes part of the structure of the cabinet, so racking strength is not particularly important unless building an island. In that case it is useful to use a single sheet of plywood for the back of the entire island.
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If you are going to use a decorative end panel you can plant the backs. Staples and glue directly on without any kind of rabbit. Use nailers inside.
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(01-05-2022, 05:15 PM)BillN Wrote: If you are going to use a decorative end panel you can plant the backs. Staples and glue directly on without any kind of rabbit. Use nailers inside.
I agree. The nailers will have to be finished to match the interior of the cabinet. They can be installed using pocket screws prior to applying the back. If you are applying a end panel, you can screw through the sides and top or through dowel.
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