Posts: 29
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
Hi,
I just got the saw and seems after some alignments it is a usable item.
I am not saying "great" because as you may know the fence rails are made of two parts and while I have aligned perfectly the blade to the miter slots and the fence to the miter slots on the right side, the left side is off and it cannot be aligned altogether with the right due to the rails design. I guess this is why this is "cheap" saw at $670. Still looks like the rest of it is good (hope my motor won't die soon - I have dedicated 20 AMP circuit for that)
This is also only 30" rip fence (30 1/2 to be exact max). I plan on doing cabinets and would need a 36" fence, but this was not an option. 36" fence rails alone are $250 and not sure if even in stock at all.
So I am thinking of getting the custom made rail to get both: the alignment and the length. The tube alone I found I can get 6' for around $50 with $20 delivery, this makes it $70. Also need to extend the back support angle bar which will be around $30 in home depot. So the total upgrade is about $100. Self stick ruler is available for about $10 each (need two), so reality is more like $120 total cost. Spray paint - some more cost. Still twice less than "questionably available" direct buy option.
Is this feasible/doable/good easy achievable solution, what do you think?
Secondary question - anybody made build-in router table for that saw model? I know there is Cobalt router table available that has perfect fit, but it will not accept the JessEm router lift that I plan to use. Hence need fully custom made table. I would be interested in design suggestions for the router table.
Thanks all
Posts: 29
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
I actually was able to solve left side alignment by some filing and drilling. I am still interested in hearing about custom made rail to reach 36"
Thanks
Posts: 2,332
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: virginia beach VA
(01-06-2022, 10:33 PM)nkarasev Wrote: I actually was able to solve left side alignment by some filing and drilling. I am still interested in hearing about custom made rail to reach 36"
Thanks
I help a freind buy an old craftman with a horrid fence, and ended up making the fence and rails. It works okay. There are a number of Youtube videos with ideas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIhMBYwm9E8 and https://justcraftingaround.com/diy-table-saw-fence/
Posts: 29
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
(01-07-2022, 07:19 AM)barryvabeach Wrote: I help a freind buy an old craftman with a horrid fence, and ended up making the fence and rails. It works okay. There are a number of Youtube videos with ideas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIhMBYwm9E8 and https://justcraftingaround.com/diy-table-saw-fence/
Thanks for the links. The question was more of whether getting longer tube is worth it, including the cost, or maybe there are other options.
Since I already have a saw and good fence (not a biesemeyer, but fairly close with all metal parts), no need to make one.
I was long thinking of doing the table extension for portable saw including the longer fence similar to those in the links, but the more time went - the more I realized it will take too much time and I will end up with mediocre-to-average tool anyway. It took 2 years to get to the idea that I should just get full size saw. That delta 36-752T2 is really a good bargain, can be tuned nicely, jut takes a bit of time probably compared to similar equipped SawStop or something like that.
Posts: 1,687
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2005
(01-07-2022, 10:28 AM)nkarasev Wrote: Thanks for the links. The question was more of whether getting longer tube is worth it, including the cost, or maybe there are other options.
Since I already have a saw and good fence (not a biesemeyer, but fairly close with all metal parts), no need to make one.
I was long thinking of doing the table extension for portable saw including the longer fence similar to those in the links, but the more time went - the more I realized it will take too much time and I will end up with mediocre-to-average tool anyway. It took 2 years to get to the idea that I should just get full size saw. That delta 36-752T2 is really a good bargain, can be tuned nicely, jut takes a bit of time probably compared to similar equipped SawStop or something like that.
The blurb on Deltamachinery.com says the rip fence has 30" to the right and 15" to the left. Would it be practical to shift the rails to the right to get your 36" capacity? A number of people have done that with other saws. Most people don't rip to the left of the blade, especially with a left tilt blade which I assume this is. What size - outside diameter is the front rail? The old style Biesmeyer rail was 3" X 2" (I think) and was readily available from steel suppliers. Just buy a piece, drill holes as necessary, clean it and paint it and new front rail.
Posts: 11,668
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2006
I have a set of the older, single piece, T2 rails that I never ended up using for a project. Although it doesn't solve your rip capacity issue it could solve your alignment issues. Like has been suggested above you might be able to alter them, redrilling the mounting holes, sliding them further to one side to increase rip capacity. I would let them go cheap but shipping might be rough.
Posts: 29
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
Hi,
sorry for delaying responses - winter vacations take precedence
Regarding the single part T2 rail - what is its total right side capacity with smallest reasonable remaining left side (say at least 5 inch to leave on left after re-drilling) ? Not sure about the shipping cost, it would be to Chicago area. The price for the 6 feet of tube I can get around $60-70 with ship around $30 give or take. If you have reasonable total cost and appropriate rip capacities I will think about it.
Regarding modifications to my current T2 with 2 pieces - I do not think it is worth voiding 5 years warranty. Redrilling as you mention will not solve alignment (partially solved by now, but this is still 2 piece rail...) plus the joint between the two pieces could get in a position where it is not desirable - often gliding the fence through that spot is not a best way to maintain fence's T- bar's plastic inserts that glide against the metal. All not worth 6 inch of extra capacity
Posts: 13,412
Threads: 4
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: New Jersey
(01-20-2022, 02:41 PM)nkarasev Wrote: Regarding modifications to my current T2 with 2 pieces - I do not think it is worth voiding 5 years warranty.
https://deltamachinery.com/warranty
Relevant quote: " • Company will not be responsible for any damage that has resulted from normal wear, misuse, abuse or any repair or alteration made by anyone other than a DELTA® Authorized Service Center or a designated representative of Company’s Customer Care Center. • "
You wouldn't void the warranty on the bulk of the saw, only to the extent your alteration to the fence resulted in the damage claimed to be subject to the warranty, so the "innards" of the saw remain warrantied and only any claim(s) with respect to the fence would be at risk to be denied. Additionally, you could always return the fence to the original config.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
Posts: 29
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
(01-20-2022, 02:58 PM)Admiral Wrote: https://deltamachinery.com/warranty
Relevant quote: "• Company will not be responsible for any damage that has resulted from normal wear, misuse, abuse or any repair or alteration made by anyone other than a DELTA® Authorized Service Center or a designated representative of Company’s Customer Care Center. • "
You wouldn't void the warranty on the bulk of the saw, only to the extent your alteration to the fence resulted in the damage claimed to be subject to the warranty, so the "innards" of the saw remain warrantied and only any claim(s) with respect to the fence would be at risk to be denied. Additionally, you could always return the fence to the original config.
I am no lawyer and maybe will still have warranty, but like I said - it is still 2 pieces and the connection between the pieces will rub and wear the plastic sliders, alignment may be off too. It may also be required to redrill or completely remove the extension plate on the left side, leaving big gap in a table.
So I agree it is still an option, just no the one I like
Posts: 5,263
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Bluegrass of KY
(01-08-2022, 11:51 AM)Lumber Yard® Wrote: I have a set of the older, single piece, T2 rails that I never ended up using for a project. Although it doesn't solve your rip capacity issue it could solve your alignment issues. Like has been suggested above you might be able to alter them, redrilling the mounting holes, sliding them further to one side to increase rip capacity. I would let them go cheap but shipping might be rough.
That is what I would try first. I almost never use the fence on the left side.
1st class birdhouse builder/scrapwood mfg.
|