Living without a Miter Saw? Festool table instead?

[Cooler]

I bought a nearly-unused Craftsman radial arm saw from a neighbor 22 years ago for $100.00.  These are still around and are going to be cheaper today.  Mine accepts dado blades as well as cross-cut blades.  

I find it handy, but it does eat up space in the shop.  I do prefer it to the chop saw for accuracy.  I use a 45 degree block to make the miter cuts instead of changing the angle of the blade. 

If you do this, make sure it is a newer model.  The older models were recalled, and that recall has ended with a recommendation to dispose of the offending saws.  The recall entailed a new blade guard.  The old blade guard would not accept a dado stack set.

[fredhargis]

If you do this, make sure it is a newer model.  The older models were recalled, and that recall has ended with a recommendation to dispose of the offending saws.  The recall entailed a new blade guard.  The old blade guard would not accept a dado stack set.

Couple of corrections. The recall had nothing to do with a dado set, in fact the 2 I had worked just fine with a dado set. It was a legal CYA over the guard not having the drop down devices that touched the table, the replacement guard had those (they threw in a replacement table as well). But the replacement s weren't made for every model, so the ones that didn't have the new guard available qualified for the $100 buyout. But eventually they ran out of the supply of replacement stuff, so then the buyout was for all the saws that qualified. Then in 2019 the buyout amount was reduced to $50, and that is still active right now. While i think an RAS is an excellent tool to have when space allows it, a better choice would be one of the older Dewalt models, specifically the ones with the solid cast iron arms.

[Cooler]

I agree that the DeWalt is likely a superior saw, but you are not going to get one for $50 or $75 like a Craftsman. 

However, the Delta Saw was the one Norm Abrams used and it is the larger version that Home Depot installed in the stores.  I think I would pick the Delta saw over the DeWalt ( I know nothing about the DeWalt saw).

[jteneyck]

I agree that the DeWalt is likely a superior saw, but you are not going to get one for $50 or $75 like a Craftsman. 

However, the Delta Saw was the one Norm Abrams used and it is the larger version that Home Depot installed in the stores.  I think I would pick the Delta saw over the DeWalt ( I know nothing about the DeWalt saw).

Actually, you often can get an older Dewalt for less than $100.  I've seen lots of MBF's in that price range, and they were about the best RAS for trim work ever made.  In any case, you usually can find a Dewalt or Delta RAS for less than a good miter saw.  Easy choice for me if you have the space and don't need portability.  Love my Dewalt GWI, for which I paid $175.  

John

[greenacres2]

Actually, you often can get an older Dewalt for less than $100.  I've seen lots of MBF's in that price range, and they were about the best RAS for trim work ever made.  In any case, you usually can find a Dewalt or Delta RAS for less than a good miter saw.  Easy choice for me if you have the space and don't need portability.  Love my Dewalt GW, for which I paid $175.  

John

I've got about $200 in my 1957 Dewalt GWI--plus a Mr Sawdust table (maybe $20 in material)--absolutely a top-shelf machine, and dead accurate at 90 and 45 degree factory stops, in between it's as accurate as the user who sets it up.  My Dewalt miter saw lives in the shed on a Bosch gravity rise stand--ready to cut construction lumber.  Even if i gave it fine love, it would never be as good a saw as my old RAS, nor as solid.  My RAS table is large, but no larger than the footprint of my miter saw on its stand and serves as a small work area when not cutting (okay, table maybe a little larger than miter saw!!)
earl

[MarkWells]

I am primarily a hand tool woodworker who works out of 9x19 shop.  My guess based on the picture is that your shop is about the same size.  I have never owned a table saw.

Twenty years ago I was all power tools and bought a 12" compound miter saw, which I setup permanently on janky homemade stand.  It took up a lot of space and I never liked that saw because the table was not flat, so cuts were not accurate.  I also discovered I liked breaking down lumber with a handsaw instead.  So I sold it.

Eventually I found a Langdon manual miter box, which I stored under my workbench and would pull out occasionally.  Using that saw required I clear off my workbench,  which was always a challenge.  I also discovered that if I'm preparing drawer sides, it was a lot of work just to get the sides cut to length with smooth, square ends.

Then I had an epiphany. A 10" compound miter saw is about the same size as the manual miter box.  I could store the compound miter saw under my workbench and just pull it out when I need it.  So I got a Dewalt 10" compound miter saw along with the Dewalt "compact" folding stand.  The stand makes all the difference.  It's easy to setup, doesn't take up much space, and supports long boards.  (The stops work, but I would not rely on them for furniture accuracy.)

Now if I need to make a lot of repeated cuts or I want that smooth finish from a carbide blade, I setup the stand outside and make the cuts.  If it's just a few cuts, I don't go to the trouble and use a bench hook and carcass saw.  But if it's several cuts, the compound miter saw saves me a lot of time without taking up much shop space.

On accuracy, my saw is 10" and doesn't slide, both which I believe makes it more accurate.  It's certainly more accurate than my cuts by hand.

This is a relatively new setup for me, so consider that, but so far this has worked out very well.

Mark

[jteneyck]

I am primarily a hand tool woodworker who works out of 9x19 shop.  My guess based on the picture is that your shop is about the same size.  I have never owned a table saw.

Twenty years ago I was all power tools and bought a 12" compound miter saw, which I setup permanently on janky homemade stand.  It took up a lot of space and I never liked that saw because the table was not flat, so cuts were not accurate.  I also discovered I liked breaking down lumber with a handsaw instead.  So I sold it.

Eventually I found a Langdon manual miter box, which I stored under my workbench and would pull out occasionally.  Using that saw required I clear off my workbench,  which was always a challenge.  I also discovered that if I'm preparing drawer sides, it was a lot of work just to get the sides cut to length with smooth, square ends.

Then I had an epiphany. A 10" compound miter saw is about the same size as the manual miter box.  I could store the compound miter saw under my workbench and just pull it out when I need it.  So I got a Dewalt 10" compound miter saw along with the Dewalt "compact" folding stand.  The stand makes all the difference.  It's easy to setup, doesn't take up much space, and supports long boards.  (The stops work, but I would not rely on them for furniture accuracy.)

Now if I need to make a lot of repeated cuts or I want that smooth finish from a carbide blade, I setup the stand outside and make the cuts.  If it's just a few cuts, I don't go to the trouble and use a bench hook and carcass saw.  But if it's several cuts, the compound miter saw saves me a lot of time without taking up much shop space.

On accuracy, my saw is 10" and doesn't slide, both which I believe makes it more accurate.  It's certainly more accurate than my cuts by hand.

This is a relatively new setup for me, so consider that, but so far this has worked out very well.

Mark

How do you cut sheet goods or rip a piece of wood to 1" width?  

John

[Cooler]

You can rip on a radial arm saw.  I have never tried it.  I've heard that it is not a particularly safe operation.

The big safety problem with RAS is loose bearings that allow very smooth operation but also allow the blade to climb up on the stock.  A nice tight bearing will not feel so smooth but is much safer.

[jteneyck]

Thanks Cooler, but I as asking Mark.  

John

[MarkWells]

How do you cut sheet goods or rip a piece of wood to 1" width? 

My first choice ripping is band saw.  I rip it and then clean up the edge with a hand plane.

I have also ripped with a hand saw and it's not nearly as bad as you might think, depending on the wood.

Sheet goods I don't use much, but I have found that I can hand plane the edge of plywood without too much trouble, so the same ripping and cleaning up the edge works.

Not long ago I bought a track saw.  Now I can use that for sheet goods.  Before I had the track saw, I would cut sheet goods with a 10 tpi crosscut hand saw.  It goes pretty fast, but there's a lot of tear out on the back side.

Mark