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Hi,
Some time ago I upgraded my router table setup to a Triton with Infinity plate. Usually I have used my router table to make small moldings that you cant buy so precision was not critical, just adjust until it looks good, run stock through and remove ends where inevitably the stock dove into the bit. However I just did my first cope and stick and I realized everything has to be perfect.
So the downsides of the Triton is that it has an awkward power interlock (obviously to prevent power on when shaft is locked and safety) where you have to slide a cover over the power switch before you can raise the bit to where it locks the shaft for bit removal. At first i was really irked by this because you cannot see the switch due to its position. After using it a bit I can do it by feel now so it's not a deal breaker.
Also the Triton bit height is adjusted with a crank from the top however before you can make the cut you have to lock the router plunge with a lever because the lift screw is relying on solely on the routers weight to set the height. When you lock it the bit height shifts a bit which can lead to a bit of trial and error on setting critical bit heights.
I'm Ok with this for my uses but I was wondering if router lifts have to be locked or do they have enough friction to maintain the setting during use?
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(01-29-2022, 04:25 PM)alexh1 Wrote: Hi,
Some time ago I upgraded my router table setup to a Triton with Infinity plate. Usually I have used my router table to make small moldings that you cant buy so precision was not critical, just adjust until it looks good, run stock through and remove ends where inevitably the stock dove into the bit. However I just did my first cope and stick and I realized everything has to be perfect.
So the downsides of the Triton is that it has an awkward power interlock (obviously to prevent power on when shaft is locked and safety) where you have to slide a cover over the power switch before you can raise the bit to where it locks the shaft for bit removal. At first i was really irked by this because you cannot see the switch due to its position. After using it a bit I can do it by feel now so it's not a deal breaker.
Also the Triton bit height is adjusted with a crank from the top however before you can make the cut you have to lock the router plunge with a lever because the lift screw is relying on solely on the routers weight to set the height. When you lock it the bit height shifts a bit which can lead to a bit of trial and error on setting critical bit heights.
I'm Ok with this for my uses but I was wondering if router lifts have to be locked or do they have enough friction to maintain the setting during use?
I've got a Jessem Mast-R-Lift, and it doesn't have a lock. I just learned a bit about this lift as the nut on the threaded shaft stripped its threads and had to be replaced, which has now been done. In reading up on the repair procedure, Jessem points out that the design of the lift has a tension adjustment that puts side-force on the upper (nearest the table surface, with router upside down) nut to provide a bit of resistance, thus eliminating the need of a lock mechanism. I can't speak for the other brands of router lifts.
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My lift is the PRL older model, and it doesn't have a lock.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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I have the PRLV2....no lock either.
Typically when one has a gearbox with a positive ratio (2:1 or more) they do not need a lock. The laws of phyics will not allow them to "backdrive". The prl lifts have a gearbox for fine adjustment.
Take an atv winch for example, there is no lock. One can tension a load and the cable won't pull out. The gear ratio will not let it be pulled out by the load.
Ed
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I had the same experience with Triton due to backlash in the gears, every time you unlocked it, the bit dropped a little. Got so bad I called Trition, their reply was "its the nature of the beast".
I have a MastRLift II. It does have a lock. That said, several times I've forgotten to lock it and the bit didn't move. I think the thread pitch is so small it would take a lot to make them move.
But, its no big deal locking and unlocking the lift.
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I have had a Triton for years. It didn't take long to get used to it's nuances. I always use the lock. Depending on the bit, depth of cut and side forces, it would be possible for the router to be pulled up slightly or move side-to-side into the workpiece and ruin the workpiece. I built my router table to allow easy access to the power switch and the lock lever. I also plan out my cuts to minimize changes to the bit height.
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Worse than ignorance is the illusion of knowledge.
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The masses have never thirsted after truth. Whoever can supply them with illusions is easily their master; whoever attempts to destroy their illusions is always their victim. - Gustave Le Bon
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In my opinion, the main benefit of the triton is the cost.
I have 3 tables setup with triton routers in each that would be cost prohibitive with 3 lifts.
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(01-31-2022, 03:20 PM)JDuke Wrote: In my opinion, the main benefit of the triton is the cost.
Me, too. It works. Do I wish the raising and lowering mechanism was tighter? Yes. But I paid $259 for the setup. A router motor and lift would have cost at least $600.
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
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(01-31-2022, 10:40 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: I had the same experience with Triton due to backlash in the gears, every time you unlocked it, the bit dropped a little. Got so bad I called Trition, their reply was "its the nature of the beast".
I have a MastRLift II. It does have a lock. That said, several times I've forgotten to lock it and the bit didn't move. I think the thread pitch is so small it would take a lot to make them move.
But, its no big deal locking and unlocking the lift.
I have a Mast-R-Lift II also and locking and unlocking, as mentioned above is a snap. Lift holds bit heights dead on the money. Fortunately, I already had the PC 7518 for it. If you're ever in the market for a lift I can strongly recommend this one.
Doug
