Hi, beginner with some questions.

[Handplanesandmore]

Hey Lean,

Budget of course dictates a big purchase decision like this. You'll still be happy with a CNS.

I recommended the PCS based on the "Buy the best you can afford" principle. Before the pandemic, the price difference between the two models was ballpark $600 or so. Even if it were $800, it was still only $70 a month or $35 over two years of spending cuts on some monthly recurrent expenses. But that's a life time machine with no more need to upgrade to a better machine. I could easily skip a restaurant dinner once a month if I had to.

Enjoy your sawstop.

Simon

[jteneyck]

thanks everyone for the replies and the advice you are all giving this fletching wood worker!! really appreciate it.
I think im in the boat along with jteneyck. to me the table saw is more then just straight line cuts (although the initial question was about ripping 8x4 in a small garage) to me its a machine that can do so much more and for me to learn, i feel a table saw is the way to go. id like to get a track saw eventually for the rip and unusual cuts but for now i feel a table saw is better for me. the sawstop was really my wife wanting me to save my fingers if poop hits the fan. I initially went with a skilsaw jobsite saw to be mounted on the end of a 8x4 table

@Handplanesandmore despite the fact that it was the wife who suggested sawstop, im really into them now and as much as id like the the next step up. i just cant afford it. i know im getting the jessem stock guides for sure and the cost are already mounting high and i havent even bought any wood yet lol. in my head the contractor saw is a nice middle of the range saw for me to learn on and if i had extra money i think id rather get a nicer dust extractor then the harbor freight one. maybe in the future if i really get into this or actually make some money of it i can upgrade. i have not placed the order yet. was waiting to see if they still had the march-april promotions and they do not. so just waiting to clean the garage out first or i'll no where to put it.

@joe1086 you can do that? just rip up plywood in the carpark? i would thought it was not allowed..i didnt even think that was an option lol i do have a battery powered 6.5" circular saw

@Bach1750 thank you. i hope the hobby is as rewarding too. my heart is set on a sawstop now lol wife complains thought, why im always picking expensive hobbies. i also have a 180g reef tank. kinda wish i could took some of the cash from tank to put into woodworking but no regrets so far

Jessem Stock Guides?  You can do just as well with a couple of shop made feather guides, or splurge and buy them for $20 or $30.  Use the money you save on something important.  

I'm not saying the Jessem Stock Guides aren't nice or don't do a good job.  I'm sure they do.  But they are a luxury, not a necessity, and especially not for someone looking to stretch their dollars.  

Whatever you do - use the guard and riving knife that comes with your saw.  Just because it has injury prevention technology doesn't mean you should test fate.  Beyond that, dust and chips can fly back towards you if the guard isn't in place.  Which leads to one more critical habit whether or not the guard is on.  Always wear safety glasses whenever in the shop.  

John  

John

[Handplanesandmore]

John,

The stock guides are not a necessity but neither is the sawstop.

When the work is large, there may not be room on the table for the feather board. The guides allow ripping a large sheet without struggling.

Simon

[Leandre]

Small update, since no promos for sawstop the purchase is on hold till end of the month. until the wife does the taxes and sees how much rebate we get. A good chance i can upgrade to the PCS rather then the contractor saw.

I agree with both jteneyck and Handplanesandmore i dont think the jess'ems are a priority but would really help me when ripping large pieces. however and depending on the returns, i think im spending the money on cyclone add on for the HF 2hp dust collector. i feel thats more important (please correct me if im wrong ><)

But now i have another question. if i get the contractor saw would be better to keep it on the provided stand or add it to the end of the outfeed table? Im not seeing many people doing this and im not sure if its a bad idea or most people dont bother buying the contractor and go straight for the pro. either way thanks again for your advice

[jteneyck]

John,

The stock guides are not a necessity but neither is the sawstop.

When the work is large, there may not be room on the table for the feather board. The guides allow ripping a large sheet without struggling.

Simon

You're right, but they are in completely different categories.  One is a convenience, the other could prevent a life of inconvenience.  

John

[jteneyck]

Small update, since no promos for sawstop the purchase is on hold till end of the month. until the wife does the taxes and sees how much rebate we get. A good chance i can upgrade to the PCS rather then the contractor saw.

I agree with both jteneyck and Handplanesandmore i dont think the jess'ems are a priority but would really help me when ripping large pieces. however and depending on the returns, i think im spending the money on cyclone add on for the HF 2hp dust collector. i feel thats more important (please correct me if im wrong ><)

But now i have another question. if i get the contractor saw would be better to keep it on the provided stand or add it to the end of the outfeed table? Im not seeing many people doing this and im not sure if its a bad idea or most people dont bother buying the contractor and go straight for the pro. either way thanks again for your advice

It doesn't matter how you accomplish it, but you need a way of catching parts as they come of the back of the tablesaw.  Fold up/down outfeed table, separate bench, whatever fits your space and way of working.  I use a "bridge" between the back of my tablesaws and bench to support parts coming off them.  The bridge slides left/right, as needed, on a ledger on the bench.  d



If you want to cut anything very long or large you need support going both into and out of the saw.  

A cyclone is a great addition to a DC.  Keep in mind that you will lose some flow by adding it which may or may not be an issue.  If you keep the runs short and connect it to only one machine at a time it should be fine.  

John

[Leandre]

im planing to have the DC as close as the i can to table saw to reduce the need to flex hose. ideally 3'

"Keep in mind that you will lose some flow by adding it which may or may not be an issue."
yeah ive been reading about that, to point where i, just gonna buy the dust deputy rather then diy'ing one as i feel id make it wrong and reduce airflow. of course i have no idea what im saying is right and regardless of buying or diy flow will be reduce but i do plan to have the outflow outside of the garage and into a bin. hopefully not having a bag will help the airflow giving me more suction. when i can afford a proper filter then i'll move it indoors.

"picture"

ohh thats nice and im pretty sure it didnt cost $150 lol im gonna have to copy that. As for the table, i have around 20' of space from the garage door to the wife's "do not cross line" that should be enough for a 8' either side of the saw. the question was asking was for having the contractor saw ( if funds cant warrent a pcs) mounted on the end of the outfeed table and have the whole move as one or keep then separate. as im probably gonna be a weekend warrior for a while, it would be nice to be able to move everything to one side when not in use. its a minor thing but something for me to consider when i build an outfeed table so asking for opinions.

and your shop, its so big and looks like a real woodworkers shop. looks awesome...

[Handplanesandmore]

Dust collection must be used with whatever saw you end up buying.

As for the stock guides, first and foremost, they are a safety tool, not a tool for convenience. Their main purpose is to (cross out- prevent) eliminate kickback. It just so happens that their rollers make the handling of large sheets so much easier. DC should come before the stock guides.

Outfeed tables can be bought or made. Google shop made folding outfeed tables for ideas. You can make one for well under $50 with some scrap board and hinges. Woodsmith I think has articles on the topic.

Simon

[jteneyck]

Dust collection must be used with whatever saw you end up buying.

As for the stock guides, first and foremost, they are a safety tool, not a tool for convenience. Their main purpose is to (cross out- prevent) eliminate kickback. It just so happens that their rollers make the handling of large sheets so much easier. DC should come before the stock guides.

Outfeed tables can be bought or made. Google shop made folding outfeed tables for ideas. You can make one for well under $50 with some scrap board and hinges. Woodsmith I think has articles on the topic.

Simon

The anti kickback pawls that come mounted to the saw guard prevent kickback.  Have you noticed how Jessem always shows those stock guides with the blade guard removed? 

Adequate support and proper technique is what keeps a big sheet pressed against the fence.  

John

[jteneyck]

im planing to have the DC as close as the i can to table saw to reduce the need to flex hose. ideally 3'

"Keep in mind that you will lose some flow by adding it which may or may not be an issue."
yeah ive been reading about that, to point where i, just gonna buy the dust deputy rather then diy'ing one as i feel id make it wrong and reduce airflow. of course i have no idea what im saying is right and regardless of buying or diy flow will be reduce but i do plan to have the outflow outside of the garage and into a bin. hopefully not having a bag will help the airflow giving me more suction. when i can afford a proper filter then i'll move it indoors.

"picture"

ohh thats nice and im pretty sure it didnt cost $150 lol im gonna have to copy that. As for the table, i have around 20' of space from the garage door to the wife's "do not cross line" that should be enough for a 8' either side of the saw. the question was asking was for having the contractor saw ( if funds cant warrent a pcs) mounted on the end of the outfeed table and have the whole move as one or keep then separate. as im probably gonna be a weekend warrior for a while, it would be nice to be able to move everything to one side when not in use. its a minor thing but something for me to consider when i build an outfeed table so asking for opinions.

and your shop, its so big and looks like a real woodworkers shop. looks awesome...

Ah, now I understand your question.  Sure, you could mount the saw on the end of the outfeed table so that they can move around as one unit.  Just think about access for maintenance as you design the mounting system.    

I can see how my shop might look large to you, but no shop is ever large enough and each has their own challenges.  Mine is my basement, with heat and RH control.  The downside is it's in my basement, with support posts that dictate where machines can go, and the only access is down a set of stairs from my kitchen.  Taking materials in and finished projects out can sometimes be a real challenge, to say nothing of the 500 lb + machines I have down there.  I hope the next owner of my house likes woodworking!  

John