Hi, beginner with some questions.

[Handplanesandmore]

The anti kickback pawls that come mounted to the saw guard prevent kickback.  Have you noticed how Jessem always shows those stock guides with the blade guard removed? 

Adequate support and proper technique is what keeps a big sheet pressed against the fence.  

John

Anti kickback pawls reduce but do not eliminate kickback. Kickback can and do happen during sawing before the stock reaches the pawls, which are located at the end of the splitter. Riving knives are better than pawls in preventing kickback, but still they don't eliminate kickback as the stock guides do.


Have you noticed how Jessem always shows those stock guides with the blade guard removed? 

Whether they're suggesting with the stock guides, no one needs to use the blade guard, I don't know. Or they do it for clarity purpose. Blade guards should be used unless they can't be used such as using the crosscut sled. The woodworker I know does use the stock guides with his blade guard which is a sawstop dust collection guard. He removes it only if the guard gets in the way.

Bottomline: every layer of safety protection helps. If money is an issue, simply prioritize the layers. But the stock guides aren't for convenience.

Simon

[Leandre]

ok, reading what you guys have written ive come to the conclusion that i should get a PCS over a contractor saw, to a point where i should postpone the jess'ems. so thats what i think im gonna do. uses the cash for the bigger saw and get the HF 2hp DC (which is currently on sale for $199 with membership) i also want to get the dust guard for the blade

so this brings me to my next question. whats the difference between a precision mitre gauge like the kreg or incra VS building your own cross cut sled? is it a cost thing or its something else?
once again thanks for all the help guys ^^

[Handplanesandmore]

The pcs comes with a decent miter gauge. Just add a fence to the miter gauge. Since budget is limited, start with the saw and dc, and build a cross cut sled which is a must and can't be replaced by any miter gauge.

Contrary to what some said about the dust collection blade guard, it's the best overarm system but there's a catch --- you need to hook up the blade guard to a dust extractor or shop vac, and not to the dc which wont be powerful enough even if it's 2HP for both under the table and above the table dust collection. I know as I have used both the blade guard and the much more expensive overhead dust collection tube.

Use the saw, the factory miter gauge and cross cut sled to build things for a while (6 months to 2 to 3 projects), THEN decide if you need a better miter gauge and if so, which one.

Simon

[Leandre]

oh ok i have a shop vac with the home depot cyclone add on thing for a 5g bucket so i can add that to the dust guard. i still dont know the advantages of using either of the cross cut devices but i do have materials for a cross cut sled. Kat moses stop block, t-tracks with the clamps. i was just wondering what the difference was between them.

i was always going to build the cross cut sled but was watching videos on youtube and i had no idea why people picked one or the other. now just to buy the bloody thing and get started lol
once again, thanks for replies. i'll be sure to keep asking question.

[jteneyck]

I agree with Simon; build a crosscut sled, or two.  I have a monster crosscut sled I built when I built my kitchen many years ago.  It still cuts 90 deg +/- just about 0.  I can cut panels at least 3' wide on it, like you need for building kitchen cabinets and doors.  I built a smaller sled, too, a few years ago for cutting stiles, rails, etc. to length. They cost very little to build and you learn a lot doing so.  

As for dust collection blowing the exhaust outside is a smart choice IMO.  You won't be breathing the fines that get through the filter bag and you will gain back airflow, maybe enough to balance the drop from the added cyclone.  I did the same with my system several years ago and it has been nothing but positive.  When I did it I also upsized the exhaust hose from 5 to 6", so that it was equal to the exhaust port on the DC housing.  Just doing that added another inch or so of pressure drop.  If you want to go full bore then tear apart the DC and mount it directly on top of the cyclone with the inlet port matching the cyclone outlet port.  


 
In the photo I showed of my TS earlier you'll see the overarm blade guard and DC hose.  That hose goes to a Y in my main DC piping.  Another 4" hose goes to the back of the saw cabinet.  When the blade guard is sealed on a piece of wood it captures essentially all of the sawdust.  Only when it's open on one side, like in that photo, does some of the sawdust escape.  I can't speak to the SawStop blade guard, but my DC takes care of all the dust collection needs on my TS.  

The PCS will be a great saw.  Thank your wife.  Save your money on all the doodads and learn to use the saw and build the accessories you need.  

John

[Handplanesandmore]

oh ok i have a shop vac with the home depot cyclone add on thing for a 5g bucket so i can add that to the dust guard. i still dont know the advantages of using either of the cross cut devices but i do have materials for a cross cut sled. Kat moses stop block, t-tracks with the clamps. i was just wondering what the difference was between them.

i was always going to build the cross cut sled but was watching videos on youtube and i had no idea why people picked one or the other. now just to buy the bloody thing and get started lol
once again, thanks for replies. i'll be sure to keep asking question.

Not sure about now, but in the old days, sawstop had two promos a year on pcs, giving away the choice of either the overarm dust collection or a mobile base. You can check sawstop or your local vendor about it.

If mobility is critical, upgrade the mobile base to the ICS hydraulic version (you pay a difference), considered the best mobile base in the market. The base lifts up the 400 lb(?) beast and allows you to wheel the tablesaw in one hand (or two if you're a bit weaker). You can upgrade it later, but will pay more.

Simon

[Turner52]

It also depends on where your wood working hobby ends up Really no way for you to know as a newbie My path has led to segmented turning In my opinion that means homeade sleds on a table saw. No othor way to do it acuratly eneough in my opinion. The most intricate I have made is 1050 different pieces of wood. Really glad I went with a good table saw 40 years ago when I bought. No such thing as track saws back then. You could clamp a straitedge to a piece of sheetgoods and make it smaller, but everyone wanted a tablesaw. Unless you are absolutly certain of where this hobby will take you, I would say buy the best table saw you can afford. This way you will be able to everything you want to do.

[Leandre]

@ Handplanesandmore thanks for the reply. i talked to an customer service rep on the sawstop website, he said there were no promotions going on and this was on early march. i suppose i should call rockler and see if they have it or not.
if it was on i was gonna pick the dust collector. i dont i need to move it unless were moving to a new house.

@Turner52 thanks for the reply. i get that, go for the cheapest option and see how it pans out for you. find out what you need and get the right tool but i was really asking is their any fundamental difference between the two?

[Leandre]

@ jteneyck thanks for the reply, been watching a ton of videos about converting the HF DC. looking at Thien Baffle. they seem pretty easy to build. just wish that fiber canisters didnt cost $60 >< but yeah, the plan is to have the back portion outside and the pump wall mounted with either one pipe that i'll move to each tool as i use (most likely) or keep one perma on the table saw and one free to move between tools and utilize the those plate gates.

*update*
just got off the phone with rockler. no promos with sawstops ; ;

[Handplanesandmore]

On another forum, a fellow woodworker took possession of a contractor sawstop, but before he opened the boxes, he decided to switch it to a pcs (he wanted to install a router wing, which seemingly the pcs can support). He was smart in making the last-minute change (for whatever reason).....but still not as smart as you.


Simon