06-21-2022, 05:02 PM
I asked in a separate thread about LVP flooring. The house is a split level with 3 bedrooms upstairs. The carpet on the stairs, bedrooms, and closet will be replaced with LVP (maybe engineered or even hardwood as my wife is moving up the delivery of my tools).
The walls aren't all in the right location (like that mystery void above the stairs), but good enough. What direction do I run the flooring in the hallway (beige) so that corner where the 2 bedrooms meet isn't odd looking or a nightmare to install? I can 1) weave the boards, 2) join them at 45deg, or 3) dead end one into the other. Are there other scenarios?
I definitely don't want a transition strip that sits above the level of the floor, but that seems to rule out LVP and probably engineered since they are already thin.
I believe the floor joists run left to right relative to this picture. I'd rather not add a 1/2" sheet of plywood over all the floors, and while I can access the basement ceiling below, I'd have to remove a lot of acoustic tiles to add bracing. That would be better than adding floor height, though.
I like this look where one board is laid on the diagonal and the other boards run into it. The diagonal board would have a groove on both edges and I'd have to cut the mating boards to the same angle, and mill the mating tongue. Do I then create a problem because these boards are trapped where they meet the stairs or bedrooms but can't expand lengthwise?
Thanks,
Paul
The walls aren't all in the right location (like that mystery void above the stairs), but good enough. What direction do I run the flooring in the hallway (beige) so that corner where the 2 bedrooms meet isn't odd looking or a nightmare to install? I can 1) weave the boards, 2) join them at 45deg, or 3) dead end one into the other. Are there other scenarios?
I definitely don't want a transition strip that sits above the level of the floor, but that seems to rule out LVP and probably engineered since they are already thin.
I believe the floor joists run left to right relative to this picture. I'd rather not add a 1/2" sheet of plywood over all the floors, and while I can access the basement ceiling below, I'd have to remove a lot of acoustic tiles to add bracing. That would be better than adding floor height, though.
I like this look where one board is laid on the diagonal and the other boards run into it. The diagonal board would have a groove on both edges and I'd have to cut the mating boards to the same angle, and mill the mating tongue. Do I then create a problem because these boards are trapped where they meet the stairs or bedrooms but can't expand lengthwise?
Thanks,
Paul