Veneering Question
#11
I veneered a piece onto walnut 15 X 35 using 3/4 ply with cap bricks for pressure. Ended up with some ripple in one area. Is there a way to flatten this out or am I screwed?

Jim
Uhoh
Jim
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#12
What glue did you use???
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#13
(07-14-2022, 10:59 AM)fredhargis Wrote: What glue did you use???

Better Bond Heat Lock which I think I bought it from Veneer Supplies. The ripples are near the edge where I'll cut a dado, not as deep as the ripples go but I should be able to shoot glue up in the voids.

Jim
Jim
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#14
Well, I'm guessing you're screwed. If that had been a glue that was "reversible" you might have been able to break the bond, flatten the veneer and let the glue re-set. The heat lock doesn't appear to let go when warmed up. I found this on their web site:
After my project is veneered with Heat Lock, can I reactivate the glue area to remove a veneer?
The cross polymers in Heat Lock (which are what makes it so durable) start to set up within a few hours after the veneered panel has dried. Once this happens, the glue is not nearly as re-activatable with heat. While I suspect a clothes iron can create enough heat to allow removal, I doubt most pieces of veneer could withstand that much intense heat and would not come off cleanly.


Squirting glue into the voids and then pressing then veneer down isn't going to work either, at least it didn't for me. Just a tip: I've never been able to glue veneer using dead wight on top of a platen, invariably I would have wrinkles somewhere. Wait for other opinions, but I doubt there's an easy (or any) solution.

Out of curiosity, why would would veneer walnut?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#15
(07-14-2022, 10:19 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: I veneered a piece onto walnut 15 X 35 using 3/4 ply with cap bricks for pressure. Ended up with some ripple in one area. Is there a way to flatten this out or am I screwed?

Jim
Uhoh

I would try a hot iron before anything else.  The info. Fred posted suggests to me anyway that it will soften.  If it doesn't work, you can try shooting glue under the wrinkles and pressing again.  

John
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#16
(07-14-2022, 04:33 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I would try a hot iron before anything else.  The info. Fred posted suggests to me anyway that it will soften.  If it doesn't work, you can try shooting glue under the wrinkles and pressing again.  

John

Fred has valuable information , I will probably try to cut thin slits in the ripples and then try to shoot glue underneath.

Jim
Jim
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#17
(07-14-2022, 01:11 PM)fredhargis Wrote: Well, I'm guessing you're screwed. If that had been a glue that was "reversible" you might have been able to break the bond, flatten the veneer and let the glue re-set. The heat lock doesn't appear to let go when warmed up. I found this on their web site:
After my project is veneered with Heat Lock, can I reactivate the glue area to remove a veneer?
The cross polymers in Heat Lock (which are what makes it so durable) start to set up within a few hours after the veneered panel has dried. Once this happens, the glue is not nearly as re-activatable with heat. While I suspect a clothes iron can create enough heat to allow removal, I doubt most pieces of veneer could withstand that much intense heat and would not come off cleanly.


Squirting glue into the voids and then pressing then veneer down isn't going to work either, at least it didn't for me. Just a tip: I've never been able to glue veneer using dead wight on top of a platen, invariably I would have wrinkles somewhere. Wait for other opinions, but I doubt there's an easy (or any) solution.

Out of curiosity, why would would veneer walnut?

The walnut I'm putting the veneer on do not match at all. This is the desk portion of Lonnie Bird's secretary. The veneer matches the veneer I put on the drawer fronts.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with this stuff.

Jim
Jim
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#18
(07-15-2022, 08:45 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: Fred has valuable information , I will probably try to cut thin slits in the ripples and then try to shoot glue underneath.

Jim

Yes, that's the information that suggests that it can be heat softened.  If an iron can soften it enough that it can be removed it makes sense that it would be soft enough to stick back down.  At least to me. 

John
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#19
Let us know how things turn out.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#20
Oddly enough I stood the cap bricks on edge on the ripples and it flattened them out pretty well. Not perfect but I think will work. I'll post another reply in a few days.

Jim
Jim
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