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The drill tests to 1/2" but it's a challenge getting the dowel through the 1/2" hole and pushing the dowel approx 5" to next hole.
A 9/16th drill bit results in hole that's just a hair too big.........obviously!
I've been running the dowel on my bench belt sander but it's inaccurate and a real time suck.
Suggestions?
BTW, I select "Subscribe and receive email notification of new replies" but I never get notifications when there are replies ( ??? )
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12-16-2022, 01:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-16-2022, 01:47 PM by taxman.)
(12-16-2022, 12:59 PM)varkpilot Wrote: The drill tests to 1/2" but it's a challenge getting the dowel through the 1/2" hole and pushing the dowel approx 5" to next hole.
A 9/16th drill bit results in hole that's just a hair too big.........obviously!
I've been running the dowel on my bench belt sander but it's inaccurate and a real time suck.
Suggestions?
BTW, I select "Subscribe and receive email notification of new replies" but I never get notifications when there are replies ( ??? )
Hate to state the obvious, but have you tried a bigger bit? 13mm is barely larger than 1/2," as is 17/32, etc
Second, measure your dowels. you may have ones larger than you think. Find a source, or create ones that meet your needs.
Good luck!
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Commercially available dowels are notorious for sizing errors. Buy/make a dowel plate and size the dowel accurately.
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12-16-2022, 04:05 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-16-2022, 04:09 PM by Willyou.)
Just sand the dowels a bit. It doesn't take much. Put the dowel into a drill chuck. Loop the sandpaper (+-100-120 grit) around the dowel. Turn it on and move the sandpaper up and down the length until it's good.
Also, if you use liquid hide glue, it will lube the hole and dowel and you might be able to put it in without further effort. Yellow glue tends to grab and won't work as well.
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If everything measures correctly and you’re using Titebond, use a few drops of water.
It’ll slide easier and still hold.
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Drill and sandpaper always work well for me.
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Put you dowels in the microwave. Yes, it will shrink them, if they have swollen from excess moisture.
9/16" is bigger than 1/2"
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(12-16-2022, 12:59 PM)varkpilot Wrote: The drill tests to 1/2" but it's a challenge getting the dowel through the 1/2" hole and pushing the dowel approx 5" to next hole.
A 9/16th drill bit results in hole that's just a hair too big.........obviously!
I've been running the dowel on my bench belt sander but it's inaccurate and a real time suck.
Suggestions?
BTW, I select "Subscribe and receive email notification of new replies" but I never get notifications when there are replies ( ??? )
Most commercial dowel rods are not turned; (Google found a better description than mine.)
"In the case of smaller diameters of 1” and less, they are typically made on a molder. Boards are molded with a set of knives cutting a half round on the top of the board and another set cutting half round on the bottom. With careful set-up of the molder, a several inch wide board can “extrude” multiple round dowels at once form that single board. Set-up of the molder is key to insure accurate diameter and true roundness of the dowels."
Your application calls for a dowel pin, which are typically sized, often fluted (to relieve pressure from a blind hole), and frequently spiral fluted as well. I doubt you'll find dowel pins in the length you need, so you can start with the 1/2"dowel rods and make your own. You can make the hole larger, or the dowel smaller with a dowel plate (Which is basically a steel plate with the correct size hole to drive the rod through.). My quick go to tool for flutes is small curved jaw channel locks. While firmly squeezing the rod, with the end of the pliers on a vice or bench, I tap the rod down. Sizing the rod and creating flutes should cure your problem.
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(12-16-2022, 12:59 PM)varkpilot Wrote: BTW, I select "Subscribe and receive email notification of new replies" but I never get notifications when there are replies ( ??? )
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Turning off out-going emails for thread subscriptions was tried while we were still on that server to see if we could come off of the blacklist. It did seem to work for a short time and then it failed again when WN was experiencing the denial of service attack by 3 or 4 spammer internet providers who were trying to use WN as a spam email relay.
That DNS attack caused the horrendous slowdown for WN access that some of you may recall. The original assumption for the cause of the slowdown was that our previous server was overloaded (did not have sufficient bandwidth to handle the traffic). To address that, WN changed its server. That resulted in major disruption to the server configuration, but did not really fix the slowdown despite the new server having an order of magnitude (or 2) greater bandwidth.
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There are still issues from the last major change for the forum software followed by that change of server. Emails for thread subscription and for membership activation are among those issues.
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(12-16-2022, 12:59 PM)varkpilot Wrote: The drill tests to 1/2" but it's a challenge getting the dowel through the 1/2" hole and pushing the dowel approx 5" to next hole.
A 9/16th drill bit results in hole that's just a hair too big.........obviously!
I've been running the dowel on my bench belt sander but it's inaccurate and a real time suck.
Suggestions?
BTW, I select "Subscribe and receive email notification of new replies" but I never get notifications when there are replies ( ??? ) I just did this the other day on a repair. Use a 1/2" dowel cut to the correct length, maybe a bit shorter than needed. Bevel both ends a bit. Clamp the dowel in a vice grip with it vertical (use the bandsaw blade to check for square) Take it to the band saw and cut a kerf the entire length. Use something to support the dowel during the cut. Cut a little past half way. Then fill up the kerf with glue as well as the outside and hammer it in. Put some glue in the hole(s) as well.
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