finishing a kitchen full of drawers?

[mound]

As part of my long running Kitchen Build Thread  (check it out if interested) I've got about 25 solid maple drawers (well, solid sides, maple ply bottoms) and I'm looking for simple and cost effective finishing suggestions for the boxes.  Thanks!

[Cabinet Monkey]

As part of my long running Kitchen Build Thread  (check it out if interested) I've got about 25 solid maple drawers (well, solid sides, maple ply bottoms) and I'm looking for simple and cost effective finishing suggestions for the boxes.  Thanks!

Did you ever glue them up ?  That’ll make finishing a bit more difficult, but lots are done that way. 


Simplest is prob. a can of wipe on poly.   Be sure and do the bottom too.

[mound]

Did you ever glue them up ?  That’ll make finishing a bit more difficult, but lots are done that way. 


Simplest is prob. a can of wipe on poly.   Be sure and do the bottom too.

I did actually (glue them up) 
I worry about an oil based product off-gassing for a long time (inside kitchen drawers), is that a concern?  My FIL has some spray gear I may be able to borrow

[Willyou]

Water based poly is now pretty common and works well. Dries fast, easy to apply, durable, low odor. The only down side is that alone it does little to enhance the color of the wood. But, you can start with a first coat of shellac if that is what you want. It also sprays easily. I recently sprayed a Varathane product with some pretty inexpensive spray equipment without thinning.

[mound]

Water based poly is now pretty common and works well. Dries fast, easy to apply, durable, low odor. The only down side is that alone it does little to enhance the color of the wood. But, you can start with a first coat of shellac if that is what you want.

Actually I'd prefer to keep the maple as light as possible

[Willyou]

Actually I'd prefer to keep the maple as light as possible

I highly recommend a water based product, but strongly suggest you do a test panel to see if you like the look of it first. Some people don't. If you don't you can start with the shellac, clear or tinted, to enhance the grain and warm the color somewhat.

[mound]

thanks!                     



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[jteneyck]

WB poly over Sealcoat shellac if you want a little amber tint, leave out the Sealcoat if you want water clear.  If you want it to look like no finish at all then use flat or matte sheen.  If you want some sheen, well, pick the one you want.  

I really like GF's Enduro Clear Poly.  It sprays great, dries fast, sands easily, and is very durable.  I've done dozens and dozens of drawers with the stuff.   If you want a no spray option then I'd use Rubio Monocoat.  VOC free, stupid simple to apply, and very durable.

John

[mound]

WB poly over Sealcoat shellac if you want a little amber tint, leave out the Sealcoat if you want water clear.  If you want it to look like no finish at all then use flat or matte sheen.  If you want some sheen, well, pick the one you want.  

I really like GF's Enduro Clear Poly.  It sprays great, dries fast, sands easily, and is very durable.  I've done dozens and dozens of drawers with the stuff.   If you want a no spray option then I'd use Rubio Monocoat.  VOC free, stupid simple to apply, and very durable.

John

Thanks John.  I'm going to be using Rubio Monocoat for all the oak parts of the kitchen build. Love it, but very expensive! Though I suppose I should price out both options.  I was planning on finishing all the oak parts before gluing anything together so I can easily buff all flat surfaces of the panels/rails/stiles.   Have you used Rubio on the insides of already finished drawer boxes before? (edit: though that stuff stinks, not sure I'd want it inside the kitchen drawer boxes

[jteneyck]

Thanks John.  I'm going to be using Rubio Monocoat for all the oak parts of the kitchen build. Love it, but very expensive! Though I suppose I should price out both options.  I was planning on finishing all the oak parts before gluing anything together so I can easily buff all flat surfaces of the panels/rails/stiles.   Have you used Rubio on the insides of already finished drawer boxes before?  (edit: though that stuff stinks, not sure I'd want it inside the kitchen drawer boxes

I don't think RM is expensive compared to 2 or 3 coats of Enduro Clear Poly.  It's called Monocoat for a reason, and if you only use a single coat the price per ft^2 is not out of line with traditional finishes.  

That said, I have not actually used it inside of a cabinet.  I would have no concern in applying it to a glued up drawer; no different than doing an assembled cabinet.  If your question was more related to odor, I think that's a valid concern.  

John