just made this simple jig to cut thin strips of any length

[davco]

When it comes to the bandsaw, I disagree. I was doing a lot of curved inlay cutting boards for a while, and I was generating far too much waste on the table saw. At 1/8", waste was roughly 1:1. That's 50% yield, which is not even remotely acceptable on a dark inlay (which was usually purpleheart, wenge, or walnut). Too expensive for that. Being able to cut and lose only 1/40" or so is very handy, and resetting the fence is not a problem. It was never difficult to line up.

I would probably agree that it's a lot better on the tablesaw, especially from a safety perspective, but I don't think a tablesaw is the right tool for cutting thin strips *if* you have a bandsaw.

I agree, although if you have to rip very long strips, my band saw table is very small as compared to my ts which is also set up with an outfeed table

[FS7]

I agree, although if you gave to rip very long strips, my band saw table is very small as compared to my ts which is also set up with an outfeed table

I think we're showing this is a complicated problem. I have never ripped very long thin strips, at least not intentionally. I have several, but they are usually incidental offcuts from the track saw that I think "hey, these might come in handy" and I plane or sand as needed. Shorter ones are easy on the band saw. But then again the band saw is not a tool that people have nearly as often as a table saw.

[davco]

I think we're showing this is a complicated problem. I have never ripped very long thin strips, at least not intentionally. I have several, but they are usually incidental offcuts from the track saw that I think "hey, these might come in handy" and I plane or sand as needed. Shorter ones are easy on the band saw. But then again the band saw is not a tool that people have nearly as often as a table saw.

I built 45" high built-in cabinet out of prefinished maple plywood, and am making my own 1/4" thick edge molding to cover the exposed plywood ends so that they can take more of a beating than the iron on edge banding

[Handplanesandmore]

This wonderful jig would have helped a lot when one time I had to rip 6' or 7' long strips to cover baseboard edges for a neighbor (hardwood floor shrunk). Bandsaw? Nowhere near as fast or close in quality unless I upgrade mine.

Simon

[mound]

I had to make about (90) strips of oak this weekend (slicing 8/4 stock into 1/2" strips) and remembered this post, whipped up the jig. very helpful!

   

   

[Handplanesandmore]

Imagine doing this on an average size and quality bandsaw (with an average blade)!

Simon

[Alan S]

To make a woodstrip canoe you begin by slicing stock into 1/4" strips, perhaps 640 feet of them.  With a 1/16" kerf 7 1/4" diameter circular saw rip blade you waste minimal material.  A bandsaw it would take a very long time and you would be unlikely to save any stock after planing.

The jig shown in this thread is the only one that would make any sense for such an operation, though I must admit simply setting the fence and ripping is the usual approach.  A riving knife or splitter is helpful not only for safety, but also because it keeps the cut much cleaner by preventing the thin strips from wobbling into the back of the blade.

[Handplanesandmore]

  A riving knife or splitter is helpful not only for safety, but also because it keeps the cut much cleaner by preventing the thin strips from wobbling into the back of the blade.

It made sense for mound to use the jig because the splitter would get in the way if he used the fence without the jig to rip those pieces. If his saw had a riving knife, the jig wouldn't have been needed.

The jig has one advantage -- one can still use the blade guard (esp. one with the dust collection feature) even when ripping thin strips. A riving knife may do the job but lacking over the table dust collection.

Simon

[tablesawtom]

One persons junk is another persons treasure. Some will argue table saw and others bandsaw. Some like to use the little roller fixture and adjust the fence. I see both pros and cons to this. I watched the video shown here today and I saw some very good points made for its use. I tend to use Forrest saw blades probably 95% of the time. I can usually get a finish off from the blade that requires little or no extra work to finish off the surface. In other wards if I am doing a bent lamination I can use the strip right off from the table saw. That is a plus not mentioned in the video.

I keep a little 3 ring notebook in my shop. I like the three rings because I can move or add information as needed. A prime example is the five cut method with all the information written in my own words on how to apply the information. There are other things in there that if I used it once maybe I may need the information on how I did that particular operation even 3 years from now.

For me this is only one way of cutting exactly the same size of strips. It is cheap and easy to build quickly. It is low cost usually I have what I need on hand. I will probably put in a sketch and written information so I have this down the road. Is it the only way, NO. But it is a way if you have another way then you have a choice and it you write it down then when you have the information you can excess it. if you trust in your memory then you have,  I know there is a way but how did I do it.  Having though vocational education I can not begin to tell you how many time I have heard I can't remember how I did that operation. Write it down.

Again it is only one way of doing something, The buck stops with you.

Tom

[Pirate]

Clever. I have no problem cutting narrow strips, between blade and fence. Never liked moving the fence for repetitive cuts.